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Routes in North Face & Northwest Corner
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Call Evita 911 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Doldrums T C2+ |
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Four Play T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Friend of the Devil 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3- |
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Klondike T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Leaping Lizards T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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McCarthy's North Face T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mystic and the Mulchers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Neverlasting T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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No Kiss for Dog Lips T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Psychic Turbulance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sleight of Hand T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Spiney Norman T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Whine and Bruises T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m) |
| FA: | Trevor Bowman & Josh "Magic Man" Balt 9/10/09 |
| Page Views: | 1,135 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Trevor Bowman on Sep 18, 2009 |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
VOLUNTARY JUNE CLIMBING CLOSURE
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.
Description
Climb more or less directly up the arete between P1 of Mac North (on the right) and P1 of Leaping Lizards (on the left). Good solid small edges with decent slots for small cams lead to some large hollow blocks one must climb over (don't put pro in!) to the first crux passing a yellow step. Climb this straight up, well above a BD Micronut. Follow the easier but very runout middle arete; one could easily cut right into Mac North and get pro, but the arete proper offers fun climbing on hollow edges. At the top, where Mac North steepens into its final fingers crux, cut left up a slabby ramp and then launch up the second crux section on airy climbing up the steep face on solid edges to an exciting mantle onto the arete. From here cut right into the final 10' of Mac North.
This route offers enjoyable climbing, with distinct lower and upper sections and the middle climbing close to Mac North. However, the pro is very sparse and both crux sequences are pretty much "don't fall" terrain and the middle section is very runout (50') if you don't cut into Mac North. It does make for a nice TR from the anchors on Mac North. There is some hollow rock typical of this side of the Tower, be careful!
This route offers enjoyable climbing, with distinct lower and upper sections and the middle climbing close to Mac North. However, the pro is very sparse and both crux sequences are pretty much "don't fall" terrain and the middle section is very runout (50') if you don't cut into Mac North. It does make for a nice TR from the anchors on Mac North. There is some hollow rock typical of this side of the Tower, be careful!
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