Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Alan Bartlett, Shari Schubot 1984 |
Page Views: | 690 total · 3/month |
Shared By: | Nathan Fisher on May 12, 2006 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Sleight of Hand is another adventure style climb typical of Altered States. It starts with a nice, unprotectable, polished, dihedral that gets progressively steeper and more rotten. Pass by two pins, make the crux move, and move right into the flake (downward facing) that marks the anchor. The anchor is the same one bolt anchor as Dropping Out. Again, a lot of runout amidst rotten rock on this first pitch will have you sweating.
We did not do the second pitch as we finished on Dropping Out, but it climbs straight up from the anchor avoiding the rightward traverse of Dropping Out, and clips a bolt, a pin, and another bolt as it climbs a 5.8 slab. 1/4"'ers beware!!!
We did not do the second pitch as we finished on Dropping Out, but it climbs straight up from the anchor avoiding the rightward traverse of Dropping Out, and clips a bolt, a pin, and another bolt as it climbs a 5.8 slab. 1/4"'ers beware!!!
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