Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Altered States Gully
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Bright Shining Lie 
Air Express 
Altered States 
Angel's Ladder 
Betty's Altered Elbow 
Betty's In 3D 
Clutching at Straws 
Del Tongo 
Discrete Feat 
Dropping Out 
Eagle Roof 
Latter Day Sinner 
Magic Circus 
March of the Gummi Bears 
Proscenium 
Romance on the Rocks 
Sleight of Hand 
Slip Slidin' 
Sticky Fingers 
Stumpy 
Thoroughflare 

Sleight of Hand 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Alan Bartlett, Shari Schubot 1984
Page Views: 155
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on May 12, 2006
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Description 

Sleight of Hand is another adventure style climb typical of Altered States. It starts with a nice, unprotectable, polished, dihedral that gets progressively steeper and more rotten. Pass by two pins, make the crux move, and move right into the flake (downward facing) that marks the anchor. The anchor is the same one bolt anchor as Dropping Out. Again, a lot of runout amidst rotten rock on this first pitch will have you sweating.
We did not do the second pitch as we finished on Dropping Out, but it climbs straight up from the anchor avoiding the rightward traverse of Dropping Out, and clips a bolt, a pin, and another bolt as it climbs a 5.8 slab. 1/4"'ers beware!!!


Location 

A water polished corner (the next dihedral left of Discrete Feat), marks the start. Look for the pins up high. There is a third pin left of the flake, it is not on route.


Protection 

2 pins on the first pitch, brass nuts are needed as is a prayer. A couple of larger pieces will finish off the first pitch.



Comments on Sleight of Hand Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -