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Donnelly Canyon
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Sleeve of Wizard 
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Sleeve of Wizard 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type: Trad, 105'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Trevor Bowman, Pat Kingsbury 2/10/12
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 377
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on Dec 24, 2012
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In the lower squeeze.

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Description 

A nicely varied OW-squeeze with featured rock and more face holds than typical of the Creek. Very reminiscent of Zion.

Start with a flared OW/squeeze with good hands in the back, pull out of the flare into a cups splitter, run it out up a wider chimney to a bolt, and finish with a tough squeeze section to a belay alcove. Great blue collar outing!


Location 

On the wall directly behind Ansaid Spire.


Protection 

1 bolt, (3x)2,3 (2x)new 4,new 5,6, plenty of shoulder-length slings, chains



Photos of Sleeve of Wizard Slideshow Add Photo
About to exit over cups bulge.
About to exit over cups bulge.
Approaching the upper chimney.
Approaching the upper chimney.
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By Christina Freschl
From: Berkeley, California
Apr 12, 2013

Good route, but super loose rock. Make sure your belayer has a helmet on.