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 ADVANCED
West Ridge - part A - Verschneidung to base
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Moveable Flake T 
Allosaur T 
Auntie Perspirant T 
Blind Mouse T 
Blues Power T 
Clean Freak T 
Crow's Landing T 
Earnest Stemmingway T 
Ernest Extended Way T 
Exterminator, The T 
Farmer's Wife, The T 
First Unknown T 
Flyback T 
Foaming Cleanser T 
Initial Hangover T 
Initial Route T 
Jam Con T 
Kickin' Chicken T,S 
Leg of Ilg T 
Mineral Maze S 
Morning Thunder T 
Odarodle T 
Office Girls Walk The Plank T 
Party Pooper T 
Piece Easy T 
Pork Chop T 
Quo Vadis T 
Ranger Danger T 
Roadside Attraction T,S 
Runsholl Scrunch T 
Shot and Chaser T 
Sleepytime T 
Something Blue T 
Stepping Stones T 
Super Scooper T 
Territorial Integrity T,TR 
Thunderbolts From Hell T,S 
Thunderworld T 
Up the Downclimb T 
Verschneidung Dihedral T 
Water Line T,S 
Wild Turkey S 
Wingshot T 
Wishbone T,S 

Sleepytime 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: S. Marlatt & J. Booton, 1982 (maybe)
Page Views: 777
Submitted By: SW Marlatt on Mar 16, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Sleepytime (original photo is Ivan Rezucha's shot ...

Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Did this many years ago, after deciding that we didn't have enough small pieces to lead Morning Thunder. It's a bit of a thrutch, and I'd be very surprised if we were the FA - but since I've never seen it described elsewhere, I thought I'd add it. If nothing else, it makes an interesting alternative approach to the Allosaur amphitheatre.

Start just to the right of Morning Thunder (just left of the large block). Head straight up on decent pockets to an S-shaped crack. Continue up to the obviously, left-angling shelf and wallow up to the hole under Jam Con.

Protection 

Standard Eldo rack.


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By Mathias
From: Loveland, CO
Apr 5, 2015

The guidebook has this down as a 5.7 PG-13. It also shows a different route which runs up the crack and onto the ledge, then up and into a rotten band with crappy gear. Don't do it that way, follow the route in the beta pic, and you'll be much happier.

I took the route in the book and had a hell of a time. Took on a small cam in a bad placement (only one I could reach) and had it blow. Later took a fall on a tricam. I wish I'd seen the beta photo first.
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