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This often-overlooked route deserves more traffic, especially due to its proximity to various Gunks classics, and for its place on the low end of the difficulty scale.
Mostly an arete/slab climb, Sleepwalk does throw some pleasant vertical face traversing at the climber in the first 20 feet of the climb.
Commence this route by climbing the face about 30' to the left of the massive Ants' Line corner, just left of the tree. Traverse out left to the arete, turn the arete and balance/technique your way up the less-than-vertical face, staying within 5 feet of the arete for the majority of the pitch. End at the shared chain anchors for Ants' Line - you'll lower out over Ants'.
An alternative start is to climb the face on the same side of the arete as the rest of the route.
You can continue up from the top of P1 in several ways; the fault straight above the route is Cool Hand Duke (5.8; read more below). From the clifftop, walk right to rappel over Bonnie's Roof or left to rappel the High E line.
30 feet to the left of Ants' Line, on the face. (Note: don't continue straight up the face, as this is Ent Line, PG/R 10+)
|By Tim Schafstall|
From: Newark, DE
Apr 24, 2008
Recent Williams' Guides recommend finishing with a second pitch (Cool Hand Dukes, 5.8). I've looked at this 2 times now and the start up through the "vertical fault" contains some very questionable rock IHMO.
|By Michael G|
Jun 16, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
The guidebook says to stay to the face just left of the arete, but using the arete at certain points seems to make sense. Any thoughts?
|By Chris Duca|
From: Havertown, PA
Jul 29, 2008
Though it's been a few years since I've been on Sleepwalk, I don't recall using the arete at all. Though it probably wouldn't be considered offroute if you did, nor do I think you would be missing any spectacular piece of climb.
Oct 27, 2009
I think this is a great "breaking into the grade" 5.7! Easyish climbing, great gear, no route finding issues, ends at bolts. Swain's guide, by the way, says to use the face and the arete, FWIW. I don't think you're violating any rules if you use it, although it really isn't necessary.
I also did the Cool Hand Dukes variation for the second pitch and it was a fun jug haul with very good rock. I think the "questionable" rock mentioned by the earlier poster is in the low angled bit before the real business of this pitch. Easily avoided.
Jul 19, 2010
The flake that is shared with Ent's Line is loose - better not use it for pro. My cam expanded it and walked. There is also a loose triangular block at the arete right where you finish the traverse. I ran out the traverse, but that block spooked me.
From: Wayne, PA
Apr 9, 2011
I enjoyed this climb, I agree it's a great "breaking into the grade 7". I also enjoyed Cool Hand Dukes, and I didn't see any loose rock. It has lots of jugs.
I'm not sure how to get off this climb. We did not use the rings/slings to the right; we actually down climbed to the tree and rapped to the Ants' line chains.
Apr 11, 2011
Gail, would it have been difficult to walk over to Bonnie's, Ursula, or the High E raps? I haven't done Cool Hand Dukes, so I don't know.
Apr 12, 2011
The "rings/slings to the right" are the Bonnie's rings/slings. If you look at the picture in the book you'll see how Cool Hand Dukes ends at the same place as Bonnie's. The right edge of the buttress climbed by Cool Hand Dukes is the Bonnie's 5.7 arete. You need two ropes to use the Bonnie's station -- it is all air to the ground, well over 100 feet.
From: Lake George, NY
Apr 4, 2013
thought the rock was good on cool hand dukes. gotta say its a pumpy climb with some small crux gear and hard for 8 even by gunks standards. in fact. i thought i was a grade harder and much pumpier than double crack, which i climbed directly after. i think i have a legit case for calling this a sandbag, something i don't usually do. whatever though, its a fun time and a good second pitch to sleepwalk or ants. ursula rap is convient if you got one rope (climber's right from top of cool hand)
Apr 5, 2013
I'm confused. It has been a number of years since I have attempted to do Cool Hand Dukes but as I recall my attempt brought me pretty far to the right of the big pine tree marking the end of the original P2. I ended up above Bonnie's P2 finish on white stacked blocks. I recall thinking the rock was scary and the pro was lousy, particularly as I attempted to continue up and right. Bailed left pretty much horizontally about 12 to 17 feet to the big pine tree.
Seth what book are you referring to? The Gray Dick seems to show CHL finishing significantly above the finish to P2 of Bonnie's.
From: Lake George, NY
Apr 5, 2013
CHD doesnt appear to be drawn into my copy of grey dick. there is a letter F (pg443) directly over the vertical fracture of CHD. i think seth and i have differnt definitions of "jug haul"
Apr 6, 2013
As Ben notes, the Cool Hand Dukes fracture does go right through the letter "F" on the picture. (The "F" is there for The Throne, the climb just to the right).
The "B" line in the book (on p. 442) is not Cool Hand Dukes. It is the traditional continuation of Sleepwalk, which Dick now describes as a variation. There is no line drawn for Cool Hand Dukes, but if you look at the photo you can see a very faint line that is the fracture followed by the pitch. And the pitch takes you to the Bonnie's tree, as I mentioned, but of course you could keep going higher, as maybe losbill did lo those many years ago.
I followed Dana up this pitch again last year and I stand by my earlier remarks in every respect! A juggy good time and the pro is fine! It is steep. Keep moving.
Apr 6, 2013
Thanks for the reply Seth. I will certainly defer to Dana given his history with and knowledge of all things Gunks. But if CHD ends where Bonnie's ends how does Dick give CHD 90' and the Original route only 60'? I'm coming to the conclusion Dick's description and photo are just a bit confusing.