This route is up near the far left side of Plotinus Wall. It can take gear from small to fist sized here and there, with some poor rock and flaring placements causing an occasional runout. The route climbs just right of Bedtime Story, out a handcrack through a bulge, uncomfortably close to a small evergreen, then up the wall of cracks, flares and face holds towards the top. The anchors of Bedtime Story are a good cop-out alternative to ending up on top with a long walk back to the base. Over time, this route might get more traffic and clean up, but for now it is blah... and a dirty blah... at that.
Most of this route can be toproped after a lead of 'Bedtime Story', that is, if you don't mind fighting with the tree near the bottom. You shouldn't, if you are going to climb this rather bland, and dirty route.
BETA PHOTO: Routes on the far left side of Plotinus Wall.
|By rob bauer|
From: Golden, CO
Oct 7, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R
This reminded me of climbing in the ADKs; the runouts keep it from being actually blah, especially the last one up the headwall! You can easily belay from the Morpheus anchor. Good route for traditionalists that would improve with more traffic. (We felt like second ascentionists: lots of lichen, no chalk, no bolts.)
Note: I belayed at the top. We rap'd carefully back [left] to our packs with a 60m rope. (I'm not sure you could mindlessly lower somebody without a 70?)