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Middle East Wall
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Sleeping with the Fish 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 389
Submitted By: Ethan Henderson on Dec 1, 2011

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Description 

Start up by face climbing and using the occasional jam for about 10 feet. Then climb the short handcrack untill that puts you on a ledge.

From this ledge the crack widens to offwidth/fists with some face holds. After this the crack pinches down to hands and another finger crack appears making a set of double cracks. Climb these to the chain anchor.

More difficult that other Vantage 5.7's.


Location 

Far end of the middle east wall. Look for the the only crack with an easily visible chain anchor.


Protection 

Gear to 4"

Chain Anchor (Easily reached from above)



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By Ethan Henderson
From: Silverdale, WA
Sep 13, 2012

My favorite 5.7 at vantage.
It is tough though for a 5.7 at frenchmans I must say, though easier than people can change at the trapeze

By Ethan Henderson
From: Silverdale, WA
Nov 11, 2013

Cleaned this one up about a year ago. So it should be quite a bit cleaner and threw off everything obviously loose.