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Sleeping Giant 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Jamie Coin
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall and Winter.
Page Views: 184
Submitted By: Brent Larsen on Sep 18, 2011
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Sleeping Giant with a red rope hanging from it's a...

Description 

A 5.11b created to keep 5.11b climbers honest. This route is a massive undertaking. A roof pull at the very start leads to tiny, sequential holds that require the exact placement of three monos and the sheer luck to plunge your fingers into a desparate two finger that saves your life just in the nick of time.

Strong climbing to a nice flake under the roof then leads to a monumental sidepull that lets you gain access to the headwall over the roof. Tiny feet and well placed hands then lead you up to the monstrous finish or one long ride if you fail to wake the sleeping giant within you.

This is an old school 5.11b which actually might be a 5.11b after you have finally red pointed it. Plan on spending the entire day projecting and be happy if you manage to get a top-rope send before the sun goes down.

This is a giant waiting to be slayed, and an opponent that will not lay down and die. Get on this pumpy, technical climb and remember what it is like to really work for something!


Location 

Stuck on a buttress to the very left of Proudest Monkey and to the right of Mechanical Animals. Route can belayed from the trail. Climber can use the crack to the left to gain the pedestal if the very first, bulgy roof pull doesn't go well.


Protection 

Bring 10 quickdraws. Open shut anchors.
Stick clip first bolt if you are not as good as David was with his sling shot.



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