Sleeping Digit  5.10b

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet FA:  D. Fortner & T. Collins, 1989 Submitted By:  Tony B on Sep 13, 2004 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Private Property issues MORE INFO >>> The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited. Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite. Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This route is just right of 'Haul Off and Heave.' It is distinguished by a tree growing out of it perhaps 4m up, and a hanging flake creating a roof with an OW crack to the left at perhaps 10m up.

Climb up to the tree and sling it (easy) and continue up into a crack to below a hanging flake. Go up behind the flake and clip a stopper (fixed) and some other potential gear, then get back out of the cave. Use long slings. Place another piece of small gear - a tiny red Camalot Jr. fits perfectly, ballnuts may work OK, too, I imagine. Then use *very* surprising, inobvious crux holds to pull up and over the bulge and into the crack above - climb this to a sloping shelf. At the shelf, clip a fixed pin and place as much brass as you feel safe with, then negotiate the final corner indirectly (it might be a short ledge fall if you goof and your nuts pull).

Belay just above the route.

Descend as for other areas route- down to the East to the 4th class downclimb, or further to the rap (red & green webbing) above Move Like A Stud.

Protection 

One, 2' sling for the tree in the crack at the bottom, then a standard rack + a set of small brass or steel nuts. THe 5" piece Rossiter suggests is more likely to hinder movement than make you feel safe. The route protects well enough without it.