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Routes in Ridge 2
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Arete Funicello S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bladerunner S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dixie Rising T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Dry Heave T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Haul Off and Heave T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Heave Ho T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Krack-a-Toe-ah (submitted as Safecracker) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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LIPSTICK S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mouth of the South T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Move Like a Stud T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Slab Left S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Slab Right S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sleeping Digit T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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South of the Mouth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sportin' a Woodie S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | D. Fortner & T. Collins, 1989 |
| Page Views: | 639 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Sep 12, 2004 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Private Property issues
Details
The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Description
This route is just right of 'Haul Off and Heave.' It is distinguished by a tree growing out of it perhaps 4m up, and a hanging flake creating a roof with an OW crack to the left at perhaps 10m up.
Climb up to the tree and sling it (easy) and continue up into a crack to below a hanging flake. Go up behind the flake and clip a stopper (fixed) and some other potential gear, then get back out of the cave. Use long slings. Place another piece of small gear - a tiny red Camalot Jr. fits perfectly, ballnuts may work OK, too, I imagine. Then use *very* surprising, inobvious crux holds to pull up and over the bulge and into the crack above - climb this to a sloping shelf. At the shelf, clip a fixed pin and place as much brass as you feel safe with, then negotiate the final corner indirectly (it might be a short ledge fall if you goof and your nuts pull).
Belay just above the route.
Descend as for other areas route- down to the East to the 4th class downclimb, or further to the rap (red & green webbing) above Move Like A Stud.
Climb up to the tree and sling it (easy) and continue up into a crack to below a hanging flake. Go up behind the flake and clip a stopper (fixed) and some other potential gear, then get back out of the cave. Use long slings. Place another piece of small gear - a tiny red Camalot Jr. fits perfectly, ballnuts may work OK, too, I imagine. Then use *very* surprising, inobvious crux holds to pull up and over the bulge and into the crack above - climb this to a sloping shelf. At the shelf, clip a fixed pin and place as much brass as you feel safe with, then negotiate the final corner indirectly (it might be a short ledge fall if you goof and your nuts pull).
Belay just above the route.
Descend as for other areas route- down to the East to the 4th class downclimb, or further to the rap (red & green webbing) above Move Like A Stud.
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