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A fantastic route that I give top marks right up there with any of the best climbs of similar grade in the valley. It reminded me of the crux 3rd pitch of Serenity Crack 5.10d in Yosemite, so if you've climbed that it gives you an idea. Ed Webster's book gives it 5.10d and Jerry Handren gives it 5.10c. It could go either way, but I thought 10c was right on.
Pitch 1: Climb up the corner. Jamming, chimneying, and stemming then step around a couple of small trees and in to a system of cracks that you jam and lock to a sloping ledge at a two pin anchor. Belay here or run it in to one pitch(works fine).
Pitch 2: Not much route finding needed here. Follow the sweet clean finger crack angling out left. Connect the locks and smear your feet as you make your way to a nice topout and a 2 bolt anchor.
Left of Short Order 5.9 look for a left facing corner leading to a series of short cracks and a final pretty left leaning finger crack.
To start scramble to the left around pitch 1 of Short Order and belay from trees at the base of the corner.
Normal rack with some small nuts and TCUs or aliens for the finger crack crux.
2 rope rappel to the ground. If you ran it in to one pitch a 70m rope will get you back down (but a 60 won't, I tried).
|Comments on Sleeping Beauty
Sep 11, 2010
You will want a #3 or 4 Camalot for the first pitch.