Start a little left of the first bolt and a somewhat bouldery start leads up and right to the first bolt. Continue on the right on large holds on a somewhat hollow sounding flake. Once atop the ledge walk to the left, clip a bolt and then continue to the top working back to the right. A direct finish is also possible (5.11a) by continuing straight up from the ledge. Fun and varied climbing.
Approximately 9 feet right of the Cyclops.
7 bolts and a two bolt anchor. Please use your own gear for top rope. Bring a long sling and extend the 4th bolt to avoid rope drag.a crash pad is not a bad idea here.
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|Comments on Sleeping Bat in a Ziplock Bag
|By Adam Therneau|
Nov 15, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
This is the classic redwing 5.10. A little bit of everything: crimpy start, juggy overhang, and balancey finish.
|By Glenn Burns|
From: St. Paul, MN
May 17, 2007
the crux is getting to the first bolt. the footholds are like linoleum and the start holds are, well, polished.
fun route after the exciting start.
crash pad is not a bad idea here.
|By josh wabaunsee|
Jul 1, 2007
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
This is my least favorite of the 10's at redwing. not only is the start so polished as to be a few lettergrades harder, the bolt locations out right leave something to be desired, and without beta it becomes much harder quickly at the top.
|By Jordan Seering|
Aug 22, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
I think the start is the crux which is a few bouldery moves to the first bolt. Fun climb!
From: Minneapolis, MN
Nov 19, 2007
The beginning of this route suffered some rockfall this season, and climbs differently as a result. Perhaps a grade harder? With the different sequence, the second bolt is awkwardly positioned.
A couple of negative comments here, but I don't want to dissuade others from climbing it. With prudence, it isn't any more dangerous, and the movement remains as refreshing as a cool glass of iced tea on a hot summer day.
|By Bob Kryzer|
Sep 1, 2008
Best warm up route! Usually as crowded as Jump Start
|By Andrew Krosbakken|
Apr 5, 2009
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b
Just climbed this route and the start is great. It is not to polished and it is very crimpy, in a good way. I really didn't notice that the second bolt was placed awkardly because of the rockfall, so I don't know. Anyways this is a great route and comes highly recommended.
The start and finish are the cruxes in my opinion, and no I don't believe it is a number grade harder because of the rock fall.
And this climb is very well bolted for anyone who is wondering. Have fun.
|By Andrew R.|
From: Fairfax, VA
Jun 2, 2010
My favorite of the 10s. Kept saying "Damn this is fun!" as i climbed. Great movements throughout.
|By Alex Chase|
Oct 23, 2011
Large Piece of Africa has Pulled Off! The under cling that made up the Ivory Coast has pulled away. Scary to see. This is a major hold just right of the second bolt. Who knows if the rest of the flack know as Africa will start to come off Starting with the "West" side of the Africa. It sounds more hallow than I remember.
I would belay from the left side as the piece went to the right and it would seem the rest of the pieces would as well.
It was a majorly used piece but I believe still doable at the current grad level.
Thanks and climb safe.
|By John Ericson|
From: Murrieta, CA
Dec 31, 2011
I thought that this was an amazingly fun climb with nice delicate foot work. When my climbing partner did the route, he clipped the same bolts, but went up different portions of the face, which resulted in a very different climb.
|By Adam J. Clark|
From: Eau Claire, WI
Jun 26, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b
Climbed the route on Monday, and still find the start to be very difficult for the grade, even more so than the top slab section. The Africa flake seemed very unstable, wiggling just a little bit when stepped on.
|By Dakota Spence-Zurek|
Sep 28, 2013
Just did this route. Pretty fun, getting the flash was incredibly satisfying! The start in my opinion isn't the hardest. Very boulder-esque but actually doable if you look through the route. The overhanging section after the ledge was definitely the crux. I would honestly say due to the start and finishes it is a solid 5.10b