Sleeping Bat in a Ziplock Bag 5.10a
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| Type: | Sport |
| Consensus: | 5.10a/b [details] |
| FA: | Mike Dahlberg |
| Submitted By: | Glenn Burns on May 16, 2006 |
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Lana Nysse on the finishing moves. Spring, '07.
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Description Start a little left of the first bolt and a somewhat bouldery start leads up and right to the first bolt. Continue on the right on large holds on a somewhat hollow sounding flake. Once atop the ledge walk to the left, clip a bolt and then continue to the top working back to the right. A direct finish is also possible (5.11a) by continuing straight up from the ledge. Fun and varied climbing.
Location Approximately 9 feet right of the Cyclops.
Protection 7 bolts and a two bolt anchor. Please use your own gear for top rope. Bring a long sling and extend the 4th bolt to avoid rope drag.a crash pad is not a bad idea here.
John leading
| Dan Wilkinson on the fun, juggy holds.
| Dan pulling through the overhang near the top.
| Photo from July 2004 before the rock fall. Photo b...
| Mar 13, 2011
| Sam at the start of Sleep Bat
| Clay Nadeau, taking a breather
| BETA PHOTO: Full view of the climb. Photo by Tim Schumann.
| One of my favorite climbs at Red Wing
| jimmy hann on lead
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| Comments on Sleeping Bat in a Ziplock Bag |
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By Adam Therneau Nov 15, 2006 rating: 5.10a
| This is the classic redwing 5.10. A little bit of everything: crimpy start, juggy overhang, and balancey finish. |
By Glenn Burns From: St. Paul, MN May 17, 2007
| the crux is getting to the first bolt. the footholds are like linoleum and the start holds are, well, polished. fun route after the exciting start. crash pad is not a bad idea here. -=g=- |
By josh wabaunsee Jul 1, 2007 rating: 5.10+
| This is my least favorite of the 10's at redwing. not only is the start so polished as to be a few lettergrades harder, the bolt locations out right leave something to be desired, and without beta it becomes much harder quickly at the top. |
By Jordan Seering Aug 22, 2007 rating: 5.10a
| I think the start is the crux which is a few bouldery moves to the first bolt. Fun climb! |
By ferrells From: Minneapolis, MN Nov 19, 2007
| The beginning of this route suffered some rockfall this season, and climbs differently as a result. Perhaps a grade harder? With the different sequence, the second bolt is awkwardly positioned. A couple of negative comments here, but I don't want to dissuade others from climbing it. With prudence, it isn't any more dangerous, and the movement remains as refreshing as a cool glass of iced tea on a hot summer day. |
By Bob Kryzer From: Minnesota Sep 1, 2008
| Best warm up route! Usually as crowded as Jump Start |
By Andrew Krosbakken Apr 5, 2009 rating: 5.10a/b
| Just climbed this route and the start is great. It is not to polished and it is very crimpy, in a good way. I really didn't notice that the second bolt was placed awkardly because of the rockfall, so I don't know. Anyways this is a great route and comes highly recommended. The start and finish are the cruxes in my opinion, and no I don't believe it is a number grade harder because of the rock fall. And this climb is very well bolted for anyone who is wondering. Have fun. |
By DankBird77 From: Fairfax, VA Jun 2, 2010
| My favorite of the 10s. Kept saying "Damn this is fun!" as i climbed. Great movements throughout. |
By Alex Chase Oct 23, 2011
| Large Piece of Africa has Pulled Off! The under cling that made up the Ivory Coast has pulled away. Scary to see. This is a major hold just right of the second bolt. Who knows if the rest of the flack know as Africa will start to come off Starting with the "West" side of the Africa. It sounds more hallow than I remember. I would belay from the left side as the piece went to the right and it would seem the rest of the pieces would as well. It was a majorly used piece but I believe still doable at the current grad level. Thanks and climb safe. |
By John Ericson From: Murrieta, CA Dec 31, 2011
| I thought that this was an amazingly fun climb with nice delicate foot work. When my climbing partner did the route, he clipped the same bolts, but went up different portions of the face, which resulted in a very different climb. |
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