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Black Top Boulder
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Slappin' The Block Sit Start 

Hueco: V8 Font: 7B

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 209
Submitted By: Christian Prellwitz on Dec 14, 2012

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Description 

Start sitting with good edges just left of the blunt arete. Move the right up to a good angled crimp/edge, and then figure out a way to establish yourself on the good, high foot ledge. Finish as for the stand start.

Though adding a few tricky moves into the stand start, it is unlikely that this warrants the v10 grade that is is given in the guidebooks.


Location 

This problem is located just right of the dihedral/corner on the side that faces away from the road (often used as the downclimb). Locate the obvious blunt arete and the start holds at its base.


Protection 

A couple of pads are useful



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By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Dec 14, 2012

I know this is given v10 in the guidebooks, but it seems closer to v8 to me which is why I gave it that grade above.

I welcome the thoughts/opinions of others!

By jakobi
From: moab, utah
Feb 17, 2014

The V10 grade goes to the sit into the Blunt Arete problem which stays right of the arete. Starting left of the arete is likely v6-7 from a sit v5 from the stand. It's kind of contrived but there you go,