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The Malamute
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Slap and Tickle 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Glenn Payan, Graham Rowbotham, 1995
Page Views: 145
Submitted By: geoff georges on Oct 21, 2013
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Description 

A great challenging 10b.
I tried to enter this in meters, but it kept turning 50 m to 50 ft.
I did the Gonch start which is about 40' below the Woody.Same as Stefanie's Tears start but goes left where ST goes right. Also 5.9. Makes it a 55m pitch.
The Woody start is good too, cuts right up thinner crack that a nut tool was needed for cleaning, might be 10a.
When you near the View Ledge you can get a cam in the top of the Gonch crack with a long sling, but don't climb to the ledge, head for the left arching thin crack.


Location 

starts same as High Mtn. Woody, or better yet start with Gonch Pull to the right to make it even longer. Where that route ends on the ledge for the 2nd pitch start of Stefanie's Tears, or a little before the ledge go left on thin left trending crack. Before you run into High Mtn. Woody near the top go more right and up. Finish is thin and hard to protect.


Protection 

plenty of cams for this long pitch, many small cams and offset brass nuts good for upper half.



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