Slap and Tickle
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Climbing above the crux, nice lichen.
Find this route at the far left end of the rock. Scramble up to a ledge and clip the bolt above the roof (don't blow the first clip). Power through the roof with good holds on the left, then move up vertical rock past two more bolts the anchor.
This can be toproped by climbing easy 5th class rock up the backside to the anchor.
You'll need 3 quickdraws and something for the two coldshut anchor. Warning: as of 11-3-01 there is only one twisted open cold shut and a bolt stud with nothing on it!!!
By Adrian Hill
Jun 25, 2002
As of June 2002, the anchor at the top is still bad. However, you can sling a large flake about three feet lower than the anchor, then move right to the anchor on the 5.7. Take a double-length sling. [Eds. 6/05 there is a 2 bolt anchor with hangers]