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Jailhouse Rock
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Slammer 

YDS: 5.13+ French: 8b Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13+ French: 8b Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Alex Honnold after the jug broke. Before that is anyone's guess.
Page Views: 1,233
Submitted By: Rob Eison on Dec 3, 2012

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Mid route

Private property with a public access easement and conservation easement allowing climbing held by the Access Fund. Critical to see current requirements and restrictions. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This storied route was my nemesis and a labor of love, bringing me back to Jailhouse intermittently for 3 seasons after I moved to Denver in 2009. Originally a decent but not-sought-after 5.13b from the early Jailhouse days until a vital glue-reinforced fin broke off in the early 2000's, Slammer transformed into a notoriously elusive 5.13+ and repelled many a jailhouse hardman for years. Finally, I believe in 2007, during Alex Honnold's blitzkrieg at the House, he unlocked the new crux and called it one of the hardest 5.13's he'd sent. Bay area crusher and erudite psychologist Ethan Schwartz repeated it the next year after months of attempts rating it 5.13d. I'm convinced now after the many belays we shared that Ethan's jedi-mind tricks were responsible for the obsession that consumed me the entire next season even to the point that I considered delaying our family's move back to Denver just so I could have one more season to send Slammer. In the end I needed 2 full years of Front Range power before I finally had the tools to put this one away.

In all honesty, Slammer would easily be a 4star route and my objective favorite at Jailhouse were it not for the ledge at 25 feet just after you leave Common Thug. The climbing that follows is truly brilliant and much more cerebral than the usual burly thuggery one encounters here at this grade. There is only one obligatory knee bar at the eighth bolt which allows for vital recovery and reconnaissance before the treacherous crux--a V9 past-vertical face boulder problem on devious side pulls, a bottle-cap crimp, and sloping pinches capped by a powerful reach from a miserable undercling sloper. Another 15 feet of hero moves on steeper blocky terrain takes you to the fixed chain anchors where you can finally clip and get on with your life.

Location 

Shares the same start as Common Thug but at the fourth bolt continue straight up and right to the ledge instead of traversing left.

Protection 

11-12 fixed rope draws with a few you can skip.


Photos of Slammer Slideshow Add Photo
Fall repeatedly here at the bottlecap
Fall repeatedly here at the bottlecap
The start of Common Thug and Slammer. At the hand Rick Miller, local powerhouse and the best belay--and friend you could ever hope for.
The start of Common Thug and Slammer. At the hand ...
Recover here
Recover here
15 feet up and left from the ledge
15 feet up and left from the ledge
Finish the crux!
Finish the crux!

Comments on Slammer Add Comment
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By Phil Esra
Mar 18, 2014

The climb will never be within my reach, but I love the write-up!