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Slamdance Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Coarse Line S 
Anchor Management S 
Blood Feud S 
Coors Flake S,TR 
Lap Dance S 
My Grain Headache S 
Rush Limbo S 
Show Me The Monkey S 
Sitting Duck S 
Slam Dunk S,TR 
Squiggles T 
Standing Ovation S,TR 
Tap Dance S,TR 
Western Swing S 

Slamdance Buttress 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 9,000'
Location: 40.32363, -105.53417 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,205
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jul 6, 2011
Forecast:
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70° | 48°
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69° | 46°
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72° | 46°
Clear
70° | 42°
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Slamdance Buttress, far left.

Photo courtesy of R...

Description 

This is an interesting chunk of rock. Its west face has some atypical stone in that it has waves, huecos, and bulges in a short, 40 foot vertical. It is reminiscent of some of the west and south faces in the Flatirons and some of the vertical rock in Red River Gorge. The base of some of the routes is a bit friable, so a spot may be in order.

Some of these routes on the west face may be doable for mid-sized kids and taller. The steeper nature of these west face routes may thwart smaller kids.

There are at least 6 routes it its west face, one on its southern edge, and low angle east face options here as well. There may be more routes than listed here.


Getting There 

There are 2 approaches to these crags:

A. The most straightforward is to park at the Lily Mt. trailhead which lies on CO 7 just north of Lily Lake and south of Estes Park. The parking is roadside. The hike is largely flat for ~3/4 mile. Just after a S-shaped set of switchbacks and then a Z-shaped set of switchbacks, the uphill-most cliff appears just feet away from the trail.

B. The other approach involves following a faint trail or slight bushwhacking along a section that was cleared for fire mitigation. Park shortly after mile marker 5. There are 2 small pullouts. The first is on the east side of the road. The second (smaller) is on the west side. Hike up shortly west of the east parking pullout just past a yellow left curve sign. If you get to a rockcut, you've gone too far south. Hike up perhaps 300 vertical feet to the crags. You will see My Grain Headache as you get closer.

This is the second uphill-most crag, and it lies maybe 50 yards downhill from the trail.


L->R: 

Actually, a left->right doesn't quite make sense for this crag.

Slamdance Buttress (West face)

A. Project (No More Mr. Gneiss Guy), 9?, to be bolted.
B. Anchor Management, 8, 1p, 30', bolts.

C. Slam Dunk, 9, 1p, 25', bolts.
D. Coors Flake, 9+ or 10, 1p, 25', bolts.
E. Standing Ovation, 8+ or 9, 1p, 25', bolts.
F. Sitting Duck, 10, 1p, 25', bolts.

G. Tap Dance, 8-9, 1p, 1p, 25', bolts.
H. Lap Dance, 8- or 8, 1p, 25', bolts.
I. Blood Feud, 9+ or 10, 1p, 35', bolts.
J. Western Swing, 9 or 10, 1p, 35', bolts.

K. A Coarse Line, 9 or 10, 1p, 35', bolts.
L. Show Me The Monkey, 10, 1p, 40', bolts.
M. Rush Limbo, 6, 8, or 9, 1p, 35', bolts.

East face

N. My Grain Headache, 8, 1p, ~30', bolts.
O. Squiggles, 5 PG-13, 1p, 100', gear.


Climbing Season


14 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',6],['5.9',5],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Slamdance Buttress:
Slam Dunk   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 25'   
A Coarse Line   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   
Coors Flake   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 25'   
Show Me The Monkey   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Browse More Classics in Slamdance Buttress

Featured Route For Slamdance Buttress
Jackie, 5'2", deciphering the crux.

Lap Dance 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c  CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : Slamdance Buttress
This is currently the leftmost bolted line on the west face. It connects large features with moderate reaches. Shorter climbers may start slightly to the left. The crux is midheight where you must endure one brief bit without a positive jug. This is nice and shady.Rappel off a 2 bolt anchor.Rich Perch rates this 5.9....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

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Photos of Slamdance Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Slamdance Buttress (West face). <br /> <br />Photo courtesy of Rich Perch.
Slamdance Buttress (West face).

Photo courtesy of...
Slamdance Buttress Left. <br /> <br />Photo courtesy of Rich Perch.
Slamdance Buttress Left.

Photo courtesy of Rich P...
Slam Dance Buttress, far left, revised. <br /> <br />Photo courtesy of Rich Perch.
Slam Dance Buttress, far left, revised.

Photo cou...
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