This is an interesting chunk of rock. Its west face has some atypical stone in that it has waves, huecos, and bulges in a short, 40 foot vertical. It is reminiscent of some of the west and south faces in the Flatirons and some of the vertical rock in Red River Gorge. The base of some of the routes is a bit friable, so a spot may be in order.
Some of these routes on the west face may be doable for mid-sized kids and taller. The steeper nature of these west face routes may thwart smaller kids.
There are at least 6 routes it its west face, one on its southern edge, and low angle east face options here as well. There may be more routes than listed here.
There are 2 approaches to these crags:
A. The most straightforward is to park at the Lily Mt. trailhead which lies on CO 7 just north of Lily Lake and south of Estes Park. The parking is roadside. The hike is largely flat for ~3/4 mile. Just after a S-shaped set of switchbacks and then a Z-shaped set of switchbacks, the uphill-most cliff appears just feet away from the trail.
B. The other approach involves following a faint trail or slight bushwhacking along a section that was cleared for fire mitigation. Park shortly after mile marker 5. There are 2 small pullouts. The first is on the east side of the road. The second (smaller) is on the west side. Hike up shortly west of the east parking pullout just past a yellow left curve sign. If you get to a rockcut, you've gone too far south. Hike up perhaps 300 vertical feet to the crags. You will see My Grain Headache as you get closer.
This is the second uphill-most crag, and it lies maybe 50 yards downhill from the trail.
Actually, a left->right doesn't quite make sense for this crag.
Slamdance Buttress (West face)
A. Project (No More Mr. Gneiss Guy), 9?, to be bolted.
B. Anchor Management, 8, 1p, 30', bolts.
C. Slam Dunk, 9, 1p, 25', bolts.
D. Coors Flake, 9+ or 10, 1p, 25', bolts.
E. Standing Ovation, 8+ or 9, 1p, 25', bolts.
F. Sitting Duck, 10, 1p, 25', bolts.
G. Tap Dance, 8-9, 1p, 1p, 25', bolts.
H. Lap Dance, 8- or 8, 1p, 25', bolts.
I. Blood Feud, 9+ or 10, 1p, 35', bolts.
J. Western Swing, 9 or 10, 1p, 35', bolts.
K. A Coarse Line, 9 or 10, 1p, 35', bolts.
L. Show Me The Monkey, 10, 1p, 40', bolts.
M. Rush Limbo, 6, 8, or 9, 1p, 35', bolts.
N. My Grain Headache, 8, 1p, ~30', bolts.
O. Squiggles, 5 PG-13, 1p, 100', gear.
14 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Slamdance Buttress
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Slamdance Buttress:
Slam Dunk 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 25'
Coors Flake 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 25'
Featured Route For Slamdance Buttress
Coors Flake 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a CO
: Estes Park Valley
: ... : Slamdance Buttress
This is one of those routes that climbs a bit harder than it looks, and it is a tad reachy, too. This too is still shedding.Take your time to get in balance on the start as the holds seem to angle a bit less usefully. There is a reach that will be a stretch for the vertically-challenged, but be patient and you'll get a great edge just a bit higher. Near the top, you'll encounter a broken off flake that seemed a bit fragile, too.A taller climber may find this easier than 5.9+....[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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Slamdance Buttress (West face).
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Slamdance Buttress Left.
Photo courtesy of Rich P...
Slam Dance Buttress, far left, revised.