|Lost Orbit Rock - East Face
Starts just left of Real Men of Genius and climbs a right-slanting ramp to fingery moves (crux) past the third bolt. Higher positive edges lead up and left to a sloping bowl and then back up and right to a finish on grainy rock.
Enjoyable moves on this route, but with a brief crux and somewhat gritty rock up high it doesn't merit more than two stars.
6 bolts, chain anchors
Clipping the anchors on Slacker.
Tom Donnelly at the crux of Slacker.
BETA PHOTO: Slacker (5.10c) on the left and Real Men Of Genius...
Slacker (5.10c), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
|By susan peplow|
From: Joshua Tree
Jun 30, 2008
Great crux that gets you thinking with a reachy move afterwards.
|By C Miller|
Jun 30, 2008
Some holds have broken off at the crux making this a little more reachy; the grade remains unaffected.
|By Clif Clap|
4 days ago
Strange beginning and an awfully funny crux. I nearly onsited it but my feet slipped right as I was pulling on the crimps in the crux.
I need to do this one again another day. I've onsited at this grade before and others up to 11b, and I think the crux on this one should grade at least 11a. I worked the move and went over it on top rope after and from one day's experience I have to say quite tricky for 10c!