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Blaster, my suggested name that awaits Alan's finding the muse, starts from the first belay around the corner from AKT and just past the traverse bolt. This route is a little stiff getting started (5.10d) and pulls up past some vegetation. Stand up for a couple of clips before tackling the left leaning crack/seam that fires through the white stone right of the big roof. From a stance half way through the crack, a powerful and awkward sequence gains a pair of upside-down layaways near the end of the crack. This felt like solid 5.12c even on a top-rope. It is very hard to get back on this line if you pop chasing it, so the lead is probably more rationale. However, the exit move out of crack/seam comprises back to back 5.12b moves and is very committing, so pick your poison. Enter a balancy, tight corner and enjoy a few moderate moves before launching the exit sprawl over a shallow, flat roof. This is a surprisingly good line up an obvious feature that has been calling for someone to climb it, surprising only because it went untouched until 2001. Burly, very burly.
QD and a 60m rope.
|By Darren Mabe|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 17, 2006
Richard's description for Slacker is accurate. Josh, the one you climbed is one route left of Slacker (and right of River Dance).
there is also a variation that breaks off left after the chockstone, above the roof.
Jul 18, 2006
Thanks Darren. Just noticed the pic on the River Wall main page of Mark Rolofson climbing the route to which I was referring. I'll have to try Slacker next time I'm up there.