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 ADVANCED
Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)
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Slack 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Chris Hassig and Mark Iber 1979
Page Views: 884
Submitted By: lee hansche on Aug 31, 2007
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Ryan on Slack but because of the bolts he created...

Description 

So when i started leading trad climbs i climbed every moderate trad route i could find so i could practice placing gear and get used to trusting it. Not all the routes rate high on the quality scale but i found them to be helpful. This one is actually very cool but i didn't rate it highly due to the fact that it traverses under a few popular routes and people would be likely to give you some mumbles and grumbles (if not worse) if you did it on a busy day. However if you are a practicing trad leader and find yourself all alone at this crag you might enjoy a run on this one.

Many bolts have been added since i climbed it so trad gear might not be needed at all anymore on the first pitch but i think a few hand sized cams could be helpful on the traverse crack.

Pitch 1: Climb up the start of metamorphosis which is retrobolted. Where that route goes right you want to follow a hand crack left under clusterphobia (bolts added for this route might help you a bit) follow the crack left past Armed and Dangerous to a nice ledge where you can belay. There are bolt anchors there now. Rap off or do the second pitch.

Pitch 2: Unless someone has cleaned it up, this pitch was adventurous at best. You head up and right on fun climbing to an old rap anchor which was in rough shape when i did it but that was years ago. I decided to continue up the slab above on a scary lichen adventure with little gear. This slab was not in the guide book description so i dont know the exact grade. I'd say scary 5.7.

Again it has been a while since I've been up there so i dont know if it has been cleaned or bolted or what. If anyone knows the current state of this section of cliff please comment and i will update this info.


Location 

Start up Metamorphosis then break left under Clusterphobia and Armed and Dangerous


Protection 

lots of bolts these days but a few hand sized cams might help the unsteady leader... if you do the second pitch small nuts and cams will be handy...



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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 18, 2007

Yup, the mid belay ledge now has a bolted anchor. The second pitch is still adventure land.

By Tristan Perry
Oct 11, 2007

May the second pitch forever remain adventureland.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Nov 26, 2007

The second pitch may get an anchor so people don't have to disturb the top of the cliff, but it looks to me to be a nice easy trad route with lots of options for gear. It could use a once over though for loose stuff, so be careful, especially as many people hang out below.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 28, 2007

i think it may have been a little poor route finding on my part that made the top pitch scary but i wouldn't trade that experience for a comfortable one...

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jun 20, 2009

Is the mid belay ledge located above the anchors for Cereal Killer? Or am I getting disoriented :(

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 20, 2009

i think that sounds about right jeffery...

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
May 24, 2010

did the second pitch get an anchor yet?

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 24, 2010

I don't think so