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South Face
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Slabotomy 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Danny Rider and Luis Saca, 1996/97
Page Views: 603
Submitted By: Jason D. Martin on Feb 3, 2006

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Description 

Slabotomy is a nice short route that can be used either as an approach to Ain't No Saint or as a way to finish out the day.

The first pitch can be found just left of the base of Ain't No Saint. It follows a slightly rightward slanting crack up to a pair of bolts. (5.9)

The second pitch climbs up past numerous bolts. Some of these are quite old while others are a bit younger. This pitch ends on a ledge at a second pair of bolts beneath the slab that one may use to access the second pitch of Ain't No Saint. (5.9)

Rappel the route with double ropes or continue up Ain't No Saint.


Protection 

Expect to use small cams and nuts in on the first pitch. And expect to suppliment bolts with the same on the second.



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By calicodan
Nov 17, 2009

This description is in error. This route is one pitch and it is strictly a slab climb to the left of Aint No Saint. It is for sure 5.9 and protected by a mere three bolts - all hand drilled on lead from stances. Intended old school. Why isn't Aint No Saint listed here?