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Slabotomy is a nice short route that can be used either as an approach to Ain't No Saint or as a way to finish out the day.
The first pitch can be found just left of the base of Ain't No Saint. It follows a slightly rightward slanting crack up to a pair of bolts. (5.9)
The second pitch climbs up past numerous bolts. Some of these are quite old while others are a bit younger. This pitch ends on a ledge at a second pair of bolts beneath the slab that one may use to access the second pitch of Ain't No Saint. (5.9)
Rappel the route with double ropes or continue up Ain't No Saint.
Expect to use small cams and nuts in on the first pitch. And expect to suppliment bolts with the same on the second.
Nov 17, 2009
This description is in error. This route is one pitch and it is strictly a slab climb to the left of Aint No Saint. It is for sure 5.9 and protected by a mere three bolts - all hand drilled on lead from stances. Intended old school. Why isn't Aint No Saint listed here?
Jun 15, 2011
Don't bother emailing Danny for info on Ain't No Saint; he won't respond.
Jason's description is def jacked up but I'd bet a ham sammitch no one on this site is super jonesin' to go crush this one anyway.
I'll say it's easy to get lost on Ain't if you're not climbing slowly and looking hard on the right for the pro bolts. We ended up doing Ain't to Hot Fudge Thursday rather than diagonal rappel who knows how far back down to get back on route. The OW pitch is crunchy and the stopping point inobvious on that pitch. If you hit the huge ledge with bolts you're already way off.
My guess is that there's better rock on the wall and in the park, but I might be back for these. Western Swing looked way better and Jubilant is way fun.
|By Luis Saca|
Jun 28, 2011
My guess is how would you know how good or bad the route is if you couldn't even find it or stay on it! It's a great route and the hardest on the wall.
Jun 29, 2011
I love how both FA guys post up zero useful information, but are butthurt about the lack of attention their route gets.
Even emailing directly asking for beta got zero response from these guys. (dan specifically-didn't know Luis was on here til today)
Here's what I hear: "My route is IMPORTANT! Why aren't people talking about my route!"
and: "How would you know how good the rock is since you didn't have a great description and got off route?"
Sorry to say, guys, the first two pitches sucked-flaky, wandering on the first, runout but not really engaging...maybe it gets better. Maybe I'll go back and give it a second try. Either way, I guarantee that anyone who read my posts learned 3 things:
1)Don't bother asking these guys for info, they won't help out,
2)The rock on the first two pitches sucks, and you can walk up to the belay ledge under the OW, skipping the first pitch and saving time.
3)Another party didn't have the greatest experience on this one and pointed out the need for extra care in the routefinding department as the OW finishes.
Luis, I'm sure you guys are probably OK in person, but are being pretty obvious about not really caring to take time to share jack squat about the route itself. Post something useful and I'll buy you a beer. Seriously. The point of the site is sharing information, which I did and you and Danny didn't. Don't get butthurt-elevate the situation, brah. Your move. I checked your page and saw that your comment was literally the first thing you've added to the site in the two years you've been logged in. My feeling is that if you know enough to tell me I have shit for routefinding skills and/or brains, you know enough to write up your own climb, which from the looks of things on the route as well as asking around by word of mouth is not often done-maybe because there's not a lot of good beta around. Do we need an extra #2 cam on P4? How many feet off the P1 belay should you climb before stepping right to bolts? Little help?
If I wasn't clear enough or respectful enough, here goes what I'm emailing direct to both members of the FA team:
Dear Danny Rider and Luis Saca,
As local climbers and first ascentionists with Mountain Project accounts, I and others with designs on climbing Ain't No Saint would appreciate it if you would post up for that route with any helpful insight, a good description, and any photos that might help out other users.
I understand that it's been a long time since the first ascent of this one, but as it is reputedly the hardest route on the wall and an aesthetic one, and lies on a less-frequently visited wall with a long approach, it would be appreciated if you would give folks a heads up about any specifics on routefinding, gear reccommendations, and so on.
Thank you both for your time. As a bonus, if you do, I'll buy the poster a beer. Fair enough?
We'll see what happens next time on....Windy Peak Of Our Lives!
|By Luis Saca|
Jun 30, 2011
what ever happened to the good old days when if you liked a route you did it, if you didn't you didn't. You didn't go on line and tell the world that somebodys route sucks because you didn't like it or you went off route or whatever reason.And P.S. butthurt? I don't know you but your an Idiot!
Jun 30, 2011
I think back in the good old days, if they thought you were a tool, they drew big chalk dicks all over your route. Also in the good old days, you probably weren't calling strangers "Idiot!" on this darn-fangled interneck. I miss the good old days, where people stole ground-up routes and rapbolted them (Purple Haze), or climbed your hard-won ground-up classic and rap bolted its twin right beside it (Graveyard Waltz). I miss the good old days, when everyone was bestus friends, like the time the FA guys walked up to their fixed ropes on Risky Business and saw them coiled, hanging from the high point. I miss the good old days, when everyone was such good friends that half the locals wouldn't have jack squat to do with contributing to the guidebook. I miss the good old days when Crawford told his buddy to Go Greyhound. Everyone was bestus friends back in the time of dinosaurs, I reckon.
Ya know, I miss the good old days, when you could ask the guy that put up the route for some info and not get called an Idjut on the garsh-durned Hinternuck. I think I'll buy that beer for myself, kind sir. Your help is appreciated.
Dec 4, 2011
Those looking for a good chunk of beta on Ain't No Saint should look at Dow Williams' site summitpost.org. He thought it was a chossy pile that was dangerous and had water running down some pitches. Sounds rad.