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Purple Rain Wall
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Purple Rain T 
Slabby McCracken T 

Slabby McCracken 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 175'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 50
Submitted By: Greg Kuchyt on Oct 30, 2012

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Description 

A good climb with a decent first pitch and a solid second pitch that will only get better as it cleans up. There may be some ambiguity on the path to take on pitch 1 between the topo and description.

P1: Follow the right leaning crack to a horizontal, follow low-angle slab terrain up and left to the small-pine tree in the left-leaning, left-facing corner. Optionally, step-left ten feet and climb a handcrack until it seems logically to step left into a brown water streak. Climb this to the small pine and left-leaning corner.
Climb up and slightly right from the small pine on moderate but unprotected face climbing to the base of the right-leaning finger crack of pitch 2.
P2: Climb the slightly dirty but really nice finger crack (everything that needs to be clean is) with a short crux at its end transitioning to the slab at its top. Climb easy terrain to the cliff top.

Location 

Start: About 30 feet right of the start of Purple Rain, aka the depression formed by the downed tree. At a clear right-leaning crack.
Descent: Walk skier's right on the cliff to the low-angle slab and descend this on the skier's right most side or improvise a rappel route.

Protection 

Single rack to 3" + stoppers


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