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Slabbed Up-Side da Head 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Rick Thompson, Pat Thompson, & Sam Davidson, July 2001
Page Views: 2,488
Submitted By: Jeff Lockyer on Nov 8, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
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BETA PHOTO: Jurassic Park, showing the major formations. Upda...

Description 

This route was submitted subsequently as "Unknown 10b" by Richard Wright, and the descriptions are combined.

This route is placed in the "Questionable" category. There is a hold reinforced with glue. It seems to be the only one, and doesn't look like it was pulled off and then glued back on.

This route is located on the right-hand side of the trail near the top and just to the right of "Dynamometer" and behind the tree. This route is a line of seven bolts that defines a climb-anywhere face that intersects Dynamometer below the yellow head wall. A thin start between two large pine trees leads to great crimps and juggy edges with good feet climbing past 7 bolts. The climbing is decent and very well protected. The Fixe rings at the anchor make for a utilitarian top rope. A very enjoyable climb that does not get 3 stars because there are some suspect flakes which are a little loose on the route, as well as the 2nd bolt being placed in fairly hollow rock. Take care and climb carefully.

The crux comes around the 4th bolt where you will find the hidden hold just above and right of the bolt. Glued hold! From here the climbing eases. A decent line; 2 stars. Lower from the 2-bolt anchor about 70 feet.

Protection 

7 bolts - 2 bolt anchor.


Photos of Slabbed Up-Side da Head Slideshow Add Photo
After executing his patented 'Chalk n Shake' metho...
After executing his patented 'Chalk n Shake' metho...
10b if following the path of least resistance.
BETA PHOTO: 10b if following the path of least resistance.
Ian Dory on the crux move after his brother Ben le...
Ian Dory on the crux move after his brother Ben le...
Climbing Slabbed Up-Side da Head with a view of th...
Climbing Slabbed Up-Side da Head with a view of th...

Comments on Slabbed Up-Side da Head Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 5, 2013
By joell
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 24, 2005

Although this route does cross that "questionable" line, it is still quite fun. It is sustained 5.10c/d until the crux, then a good 5.11a crux move. It does mellow after the crux.
By Curt Nelson
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 3, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

It is a fun climb. I don't think the route is questionable because the little flake has been reinforced so it won't break. It is hard not to use it because you can't see it until you're on top of it. It is a good route that I felt is maybe 11a at the lower crux above the first bolt. I can't see that being 10b, it is thin and there is that crimp that is actually an underling pinch. Good moves up and right to 10c/d at the upper crux. You can keep going from the anchors and do the upper part (11b) of Dynamometer to the left for a pretty great longer pitch.
By HTP
From: Longmont, CO
Aug 24, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The route starts between two trees. And tho the crux is higher, it's a little exciting between the first and second bolt. :) Crimpy and fun.
By Rick Thompson
From: Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Jul 13, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Here's the FA info and description I noted when we first did it:

Slabbed Up-Side da Head 11a *
FA: Rick Thompson, Pat Thompson & Sam Davidson, July 2001
Begin 15 feet left of the previous route, between two pines and engage in sustained thin face past seven bolts to a pair of Fixe' ring anchors. 55 feet.
By Rick Thompson
From: Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Jul 13, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Question for the folks who have written the software for this website - how do you get a consensus grade of 10d when the rating votes look like this:

mattyskelton 5.11b/c
Curt Nelson 5.11a
Said 5.11a
HTP 5.11a
Brian Frank 5.11a
Tony B 5.10
Leo Paik 5.10b
Jeff Lockyer 5.11a

Not a single climber suggesting 10d, but only 2 calling it 5.10-ish and 6 calling 5.11-ish? Flawed methodology.
By Jeff Chrisler
From: Boulder, CO
May 18, 2012

To respond to your long ago posted question about how the consensus is calculated....

Just as an experiment, I gave the letter grades a number such that 11a = 11, 11b = 11.25, 11c = 11.50, 11d = 11.75 and so forth. With the gradings you gave above, if you add up all of those (the 5.10 grade gets a 10.5 and the 11b/c gets a 11.375) then the average comes out to just over 10.9, which to me, equates a 5.10d. Although no one is putting their grade at 5.10d specifically, the average with the low 5.10 grades comes out to that. To me, the calculation is working out completely fine... now the grading by those who have sent might be faulted however :)
By Jeff Chrisler
From: Boulder, CO
May 18, 2012

Thinking about it more, however, perhaps instead of the average another statistic like the mode should be used. In this case, the most popular grade would be 5.11a, and thus please you.
By George Bracksieck
Jul 24, 2013

Thanks to Jeff Chrisler for attempting to mathematically reach a rating consensus for this route. For the purpose of calculating the average, assigning numerical values is logical. But because values are arbitrarily assigned to parameters that have no inherently mathematical values, studies and even clinical trials often produce misleading results.

In the case of rating the difficulty of climbs, we climbers assign quasi-mathematical values to our subjective experiences of climbing difficulty. Now that we have made those leaps of faith, let's at least be accurate with those mathematical values. For example, 11a is really the the range of difficulty between 11.0 and 11.25; 11b covers 11.25 through 11.5; 11c is 11.5 through 11.75; and 11d is 11.75 through 12.0. For the purpose of calculations, the value of 11a should be 11.125; the value of 11b is 11.375; 11b/c is 11.5; 11d/12a is 12.0; and so on. I agree that the value of 5.10 is 10.5.

Re-crunch those numbers and see what you get for the average.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jul 24, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

George, using that methodology, we get 11.0 = 10d/11a or 10+/11-. Unfortunately, that rating is not an option on this website at this time.
By George Bracksieck
Jul 24, 2013

Hi Leo --

I followed this a year ago and thought it was 10d or 11a, but I'm easily impressed -- which means that everything seems hard to me. Yesterday, we tried to get on this one and the one just to the left, while still in the shade, but the whole area was too crowded.
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Aug 5, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

We linked this into the upper half of the route to the left which made it a great 80+ foot pitch. Seemed better than doing the intro from the left; more direct, straight up and you don't need one cam to lead it. A bit spicy on the upper half but managable.