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Slab of The Wasp 
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Slab of The Wasp 

Hueco: V0 Font: 4 PG13

   
Type:  Boulder, 20'
Consensus:  Hueco: V0 Font: 4 [details]
FA: N/A
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 449
Submitted By: Conor Raney on Mar 31, 2010

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Slab of the Wasp

Description 

I am pretty sure that this slab problem has been done before, but if anyone has any FA info please let me know so I can change it. But for now, I'll keep it as is.

This slab problem, although easy, is super fun!! I did it probably 10 times in a row!

Location 

This is on the backside of the Quarry Boulder. To get to the slab, climb to the top and walk down to the end of the slab and start there.

Protection 

If you do happen to fall, which you shouldn't, your gonna go over the edge and onto some rocks. So be sure to have a spotter with a pad or two. This is why I gave it a PG-13, although it doesn't deserve that safety rating, I just didn't want anyone to get mad at me if they fell and busted themselves up if only gave it a G.


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By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Mar 31, 2010

Conor,
Are you saying downclimb the slab in order to do the slab problem? Guess I'm a little confused by that. I've done the slab on top of that boulder many years ago. I started it by jumping up, grabbing the lip of the boulder on the left edge of the slab (the corner closest to you in your photo), doing a somewhat tricky mantel, and then walking up the slab. The mantel was definitely the crux of this problem.

Glad to see you guys getting the most of Blue Mounds' boulders. It's too bad there's not more of them.
By Conor Raney
From: Pinedale, WY
Apr 1, 2010

Yeah, I'm saying walk down the dihedral looking thing at the top of the boulder. but I should have looked for a mantel or sit start.
By Sam Daley
From: Minneapolis, Minnesota
Apr 1, 2010

Conor, you sould keep the Slab of the wasp as is because I think the rating you gave it is close. Then add 'Slab of The Wasp Jump Start!'and 'Slab of The Wast Sit Start.' The sit looks like it would be awkward but powerful. Overhanging crimpy sidepulling goodness!
By Conor Raney
From: Pinedale, WY
Apr 4, 2010

Ok sam! Will do. And yeah, I'll add a jump start. But the sit start I'll have to look at next time I go cuz, but if you have any info on the name or anything, let me know.
By Jon Marek
From: SLC
Nov 3, 2010

Tried some of the jump/sit variations recently. Jump start aint no joke, still working on it. Sit-start would be f-ing HARD. Too bad the problem is not very aesthetic...someday someone will have to put in the proper time to make this thing go.

A Very High stand start (v1) starts standing on the adjacent boulder, grab a good edge and traverse right into the slab.

Several other hard variations do exist on the back-side but making any of them work is again going to be a real challenge. Not to mention that this side of the boulder is basically the unofficial landfill for Luverne area youth (Yuck!)