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 ADVANCED
Ridge 2
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arete Funicello S 
Bladerunner S 
Dixie Rising T,S 
Dry Heave T 
Haul Off and Heave T,S 
Heave Ho T 
Mouth of the South T,S 
Move Like a Stud T 
Safecracker T,S 
Slab Left S 
Slab Right S 
Sleeping Digit T 
South of the Mouth T 
Sportin' a Woodie S 

Slab Left 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Fortner, Birch, Collins, 1989
Page Views: 160
Submitted By: Tony B on Sep 12, 2004

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Down low where the slab is thin.

Private Property issues MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Ridge two has two sections, the small lower section with 7 known routes, and the upper section, which bears at least 25. A long section of short rock separates them.

Approach the R2 slab by reaching R2, then go up the ridge (West) past the short section. You will come to a solid slab bearing two bolted lines. The left-most of the two routes on this slab is "Slab Left." From the ground, the first thing you will notice is what Rossiter refers to as "precarious flakes", one the size of a microwave, one the size of a refrigerator, and one like a mid-size car. They are in this order from the ground up, which is what makes them look so treacherous. My assessment was that their size and position made them rather secure relative to the mass of a climber. That's a good thing, considering that you start the route by climing on them... (belay to the left). 3 bolts will be immediately visible. These lead to the top of the ridge where one can traverse right (5.8?) to reach the shared anchors (opens) for the two slab routes.

The route is a little strange. Maybe 2 meters left of the route are a bunch of flakes, some of which are semi-rotten or loose. A meter left of the bolts is a good natural line. Belly-to-the-bolts seems unnatural and forced. Perhaps the bolts were pleace so far right to force a climber away from the easy but not-so-good flakes? In any case, the route is pretty good and is worthy of the effort. This is 1/2 slopers and 1/2 solid pebble pinching and edging.

Like its softer twin to the right, the 2* rating for this climb is a 'local.' In other areas, it would not be considered that good due to its meager 17m of height. It is good stone and good moves though; were it 100' tall, it could have been a classic pitch.

Protection 

3 bolts to a set of cold "opens" (open coldshuts).


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