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As you come to the slab, start heading more left (solo) a class 4 scramble to the trees above, and start your first pitch here. Place pro when you can, mostly easy face climbing to an obvious, single tree 50m up.
P2 following a series of cracks. Bring extra slings to reduce drag. Climb over the cracks and to the big chockstone just under a little dihedral. 40m.
With a solid anchor P3 is the crux. Start with small pro, and follow the cracks, use some nuts on the runout sections, but make your way up thin cracks to the top just under the roof on the left side.
This is on Cedar Park Slab, on the far left side, running parallel to Dags.
Lots of little pro, some tree slings, and extra runners. Didn't use anything bigger than a #2 c4 Camalot.
|By Tim Schafstall|
From: Newark, DE
Oct 27, 2008
How does a 3 pitch 5.7 become a Grade V route ? ;-)
|By Scott Matz|
From: Loveland, CO
Oct 28, 2008
Sorry Tim, I didn't notice that, my bad. I have to do some work with this route still, I just put it up in a hurry yesterday. This route could already have a different name as well, but it will be fixed in a couple of days.
|By allen simons|
Nov 3, 2008
Does this route follow the existing line, Slab Ants? Looks close.