Begin as per the 5.6 traverse to Banana Peel, but keep going until you see the two bolt anchor.
From here, climb up to where the slab bulges, clip three bolts and find the next anchor to the right. (5.9)
From this belay, climb left, clipping a bolt, towards a deep water runnel. Follow up the runnel until you reach a tree to belay at.
From the tree belay, continue up more slab and runnels, clipping a few bolts along the way to a bolted anchor.
Last pitch; run it straight to the trees below Boomstick Crack. A few bolts for protection.
Descent: Walk off via the Broadway Ledge descent trail, or continue climbing on routes on the upper apron to the buttress.
Climbers right of Banana Peel.
No more than 6 bolts per pitch. Take some bigger gear (3,4) for the traverse over on the first pitch if you're uncomfortable.
|By geoff georges|
From: Seattle, Wa.
Feb 8, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I think it's worth noting that the original start is way over to the right and way below the Dierde ledge. It fell out of favor for being overgrown but has been cleaned and has 2 good pitches of climbing getting up to the horizontal crack of Banana Peel.If you skip these you are missing 2 of the best pitches other then the elephant steps which is a cool feature.
Some very interesting reading here: squamishclimbing.com/squamish_climbing_bb/viewtopic.php?f=2&>>>