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Ironsides
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alloy Madness S 
Chump S 
Double Hung S 
Fire Widow aka Gypsies in the Palace S 
High Seas S 
Left of Left of PortSide S,TR 
Lump S 
Port Side T 
Repeat Offender S 
Slab-a-dab-a-doo T,S 
Unknown Left of Port Side S 
Void Where Prohibited S 
Welcome to Dystopia S 
Unsorted Routes:

Slab-a-dab-a-doo 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Allison Brown
Page Views: 775
Submitted By: Matt Juth on Jul 11, 2002

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Luke reaching for, presumably, a jam below the cru...

Description 

Not a bomb... but not a star....

To the right of the main section of the Ironsides exists a moderate route with some weird slab moves. The route can be climbed with just the bolts, but a few placements make it safe, and make the crux more comfy.

Climb the slab past 2 roofs with a couple moves of 9 around the first roof, and move of 10- past the second. I remember placing a good piece at the second crux. Clip one last bolt, and veer right to the anchor.

80' rap.


Protection 

6 bolts, and a few pro placements.



Photos of Slab-a-dab-a-doo Slideshow Add Photo
At the crux, trying to decide exactly where to step over the roof. Although the roof is the crux, it's pretty dicey higher up at the trad section.
At the crux, trying to decide exactly where to ste...
Comments on Slab-a-dab-a-doo Add Comment
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By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 28, 2005

This didn't seem significantly easier than Fire Widow. Maybe we were getting tired. You climb right of the bolts at the bottom and left of the bolts up high. The bolts up high may be to the right of the line so as to be in better rock. You'll want at least a yellow and green Alien or equivalent for the long and non-trivial runout from the 5th to the 6th bolt.

By Umph!
Jul 16, 2006

Another good climb on good stone. 5.10b seems like an honest rating for most (10c if you're shorter). I didn't use gear for placements between the bolts (would've been happy to have used them), but did wonder at a few of the bolt placements. Why this route didn't continue up to an in-line rap station is beyond my understanding. . . other than that it was a fun climb.
103 degrees today down below, but we were loving it at 80 with some clouds, and even received a little rain!