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Skywalker 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jeremy Frimer (2011) Parts of pitches 2 & 3: Dick Culbert & Mike Warr (1967)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 11,436
Submitted By: Mark Roberts on Jul 3, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Topo for Skywalker and variations, courtesy of Jer...

Description 

Something of a phenomenom, this route became immensely popular almost overnight. Seems to illustrate a deep-seated desire in the community for beginner routes lacking gear belays and runouts.

Pitch 1: Up a seepy crack or the slab beside it to a finger crack, then traverse right across a slab protected by two extremely close bolts and up a finger crack to the anchors. 5.7, 30m.

Pitch 2: "The Flume" Wedge yourself in a compressed left-facing corner crack depressingly devoid of typical 5.8 bomber fingerlocks. 5.8, 25m.

Pitch 3: "The Fork" A jug/flake pulling romp along the right of two splitting cracks, up to a thought-provoking move before the anchor. 5.7, 30m.

Pitch 4: "Skywalker" Traverse right along a juggy, slabby undercling Exposed for the grade. 5.5, 20m.

Pitch 5: Romp upward over stumps past a fist-crack move, then race up an easy slab past four bolts. 5.4, 30m.

There are a series of harder variations, note the topo I've attached, drawn up by Mr. Frimer. I haven't tried any, but if this route is below your level I might recommend trying one of them as the upper pitches of Skywalker are a bit tame.

Location 

Follow the trail to the right of Local Boys Slab, just passed Magic Carpet Ride and Not Your Normal Nightmare. Easy to find, look for a bolt ten feet up one foot to the left of a crack. Walk off to the right (Shannon Pools to the left).

Protection 

I didn't place a cam bigger than a .5 Camelot, but would recommend doubles finger sizes. There are places for gear as big as a #4, but you'd be fine with cams to one inch and one set of nuts.

All fixed anchors, sometimes several? I guess to deal with the crowds that are already an issue.


Photos of Skywalker Slideshow Add Photo
use the force
use the force
Dawn a bit further along the traverse.
Dawn a bit further along the traverse.
Flume Pitch on Skywalker. 6/2011  Photo: Reed Cusa...
Flume Pitch on Skywalker. 6/2011 Photo: Reed Cusa...
gblauer nearing the top of P3 on Skywalker.  This ...
gblauer nearing the top of P3 on Skywalker. This ...
pitch 4 traverse
pitch 4 traverse
Doing the "skywalker" pitch.
Doing the "skywalker" pitch.
Winnie running up the final pitch on Skywalker
Winnie running up the final pitch on Skywalker
May the force be with you, always.
May the force be with you, always.
Winnie running through the slab near the top of P1...
Winnie running through the slab near the top of P1...
Dawn getting ready for the fabulously exposed skyw...
Dawn getting ready for the fabulously exposed skyw...
Gail and Winnie at the top of P3.  Right at the st...
Gail and Winnie at the top of P3. Right at the st...
pitch 4
pitch 4
The start of the EPB Variation (soft 5.10a)
BETA PHOTO: The start of the EPB Variation (soft 5.10a)
Catherine on the money pitch
Catherine on the money pitch
The finish of the EPB Variation (soft 5.10a).
BETA PHOTO: The finish of the EPB Variation (soft 5.10a).
Pitch 2, 3 and 4
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 2, 3 and 4
pitch 1
pitch 1
Last pitch of Skywalker
Last pitch of Skywalker
One of several belay stations at the top of pitch ...
One of several belay stations at the top of pitch ...
The base of "Skywalker," without the cro...
The base of "Skywalker," without the cro...

Comments on Skywalker Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 14, 2014
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 7, 2011

OMG, this was an amazingly fun climb. Each pitch very different from the rest. Lots of fun all the way up.

Don't forget to see Shannon Falls on the way out (go left at the fork) it's gorgeous.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Aug 13, 2011

Haven't climbed Skywalker yet, but we were at Shannon Falls climbing other routes today as I observed a constant parade of parties on Skywalker.

I suspect this route will quickly unseat Diedre as the most popular climb in Canada!

It looks like way more fun than Diedre too!
By Colin Parker
Administrator
From: Idyllwild, CA
Aug 15, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Climbed this on Saturday. We chose the 5.10a EPB finish. It was safe and secure for a 5.10a and the moves were straightforward. I think most 5.9 leaders could send it without too much trouble, so consider it if you'd like an additional challenge or alternative to the easier traditional finish. Great fun!
By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Aug 18, 2011

Went to do it on a Wednesday evening and found two parties already on it. We went and did a few other routes and came back to do it before the sun set. It looks like there will almost always be lines for this one...

Almost too comfortized, but definitely fun and good to have such a nice route at the grade. The second pitch is surprisingly intimidating looking from below, but really is just a nice 5.8.
By Cat Cahoon
From: Seattle, WA
Aug 30, 2011

We hiked in for the route on Sunday- Fat chance! take a number. So we were the first party on it Monday. There were immediately two parties after us. The bottom of the first pitch was wet. I thought the traverse was 5.8. And the moves at the end of the third pitch are thought provoking as well. All the pitches are really fun climbing!
By John Tennant
Oct 27, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Heads up on the first slab by traverse as well as the sting in the tail on the third pitch. Seriously fun and amazing route. Instant classic.
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Taipei, TW
Aug 22, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

We climbed a 10a variation of the second pitch, which goes up the seam on the left side of the belay ledge. Protection gets thin as the seam shallows and you transition into slab with bolts. Pass the anchor on the slab and continue to the anchors above the broken crack. We then did the 10a variation of the third pitch, called EPB, which was definitely awesome. This puts you at the top-out ledge with an obvious trail up to the traditional end and walk-off.
By Patrick Callery
Apr 19, 2013

We linked p1-2 with a 60m (some rope drag) and finished up the EPB variation for a 2-pitch route. EPB is very good and should not be missed.
By Lina Baker
May 6, 2013

What a fun climb!!! Worth waiting for behind a few rope teams. The crux pitch (p2) is burly but has great jams, and the plaque before the sky-walk is priceless. fantastic climb!
By johnthethird
Jun 18, 2013

Got on this this morning, great route, great fun all the way up. Didnt see another party till we started out on the 4th pitch.
By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Jul 6, 2013

Tried the EPB variation today. Very fun, generously bolted and low in the grade. Much more interesting climbing than the last three pitches of Skywalker.
By slim
Administrator
Aug 5, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

did this one twice one morning, using all of the various 10a variation pitches. fun, well protected.
By Tomas Hatala
From: Vancouver
Jul 3, 2014

Ok, did this climb today. Survived.
The 5.8 should really be a 5.9 (2nd pitch). If you're thinking this is a good first multipitch, go do Diedre instead. Last move of the 3rd pitch was a bit tricky but doable, definitely a 5.8 move. We were there at 1pm and the crack at the bottom was slightly wet during a hot day after 3 days of sunshine, but it's not that bad to do anyway. The Skywalker pitch is more mentally challenging than technically, so get ready for some cool traversing.
We did enjoy the climb, but there are some stressful spots.
By Chrissy V
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 14, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Shannon Pools was amazing and definitely worth visiting! Hike in was easy, took a log across the creek and then uphill, met up with well marked trail (orange diamonds-turn left) and took that to the wall.