Skyscraper 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 170 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | Brian Smoot, Rich Carlston 1990 |
| Submitted By: | Nathan Fisher on Jun 20, 2003 |
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There are two lines on this face. Skyscraper clim...
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Description A long route up the middle part of The Upper S Curve Wall. Just right of the obvious dihedral. 1st bolt is an awkward clip. Big exposure and some small roofs, along with slick slabs make for the best route on the upper wall. At the 6th bolt angle right. If you angle left, there will be a 5.10 move.
Protection Slings for the tree at the top for anchor. 9 draws for the climb. You can bring a small selection of gear for the spaces between fixed gear.
BETA PHOTO: Rope marks the bolted route. Skipped one clip.
| BETA PHOTO: Full route before the Draws got cleaned.
| BETA PHOTO: Tree at the top to anchor to. There are also a se...
| BETA PHOTO: It would be beneficial to go to the right of this ...
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By Spencer Anderson From: Fort Collins, CO Mar 12, 2005 rating: 5.8+
| When I did the route today I found anchors at the top, didn't need to use the tree. P.S. Bring a rope longer than 60m. |
By Stefani Day Oct 1, 2005
| Great fun route. But there is another route part way up that heads left. Anyone know anything about that climb? At the top, there were two sets of belay anchors. |
By Timothy Gillis Oct 18, 2005 rating: 5.8+
| Will someone with a drill please add another bolt midway to avoid the walk off. Yea sounds lazy, and it is.What's that line to the left? |
By Fall Guy Oct 12, 2006
| bring two ropes or a 70m rope to get down from the new route on the left(chains). the new route is a mixed 10+. 2 out of 3 stars |
By John Steiger Apr 18, 2008 rating: 5.9
| One of the pins shown in Ruckmans' guide appears to be missing, but the protection is still there if you look for it. Yeah, a 70 meter rope will allow a rap from good bolts to get down (just). (Mobley, I'm not sure what route you are talking about; maybe you are referring to Glenlivet, but I don't think that is 5.10+ -- maybe you were talking about Bite the Wall?). |
By zoso May 31, 2009
| Route to the left is Glenlivet. 10a*** imo. Similiar to Skyscraper, just a tad harder. One of my favorites up there. |
By Riddler From: Centerville, UT Aug 7, 2009
| Sweet exit. Be wise with your runners (on both gear and bolts) or you might get some nasty rope drag. Tri-cams work well on this route. |
By Mark Dexheimer From: Midvale, UT Aug 12, 2010
| Great route. Pretty chunky climb with a few sheer spots to make it a challenge. Remember to hook your shoes up with you unless you want to hike down in your climbing shoes (my mistake). |
By Mark Dexheimer From: Midvale, UT Aug 13, 2010
| This route is bolted so it CAN be climbed as a sport route, but the bolts are 20-25 feet apart. So you have to climb about 45 feet before you are actually protected from a ground fall. Recommend that SOME trad gear be used, but it not REQUIRED. |
By Mark Dexheimer From: Midvale, UT Aug 13, 2010
| Glenlivet is to the left of Skyscraper, but it is a TRAD route. Skyscraper is the only sport route on this section of wall. Just so you know. Knowing this will save you hours of trying to find the Bolts on the left that aren't there. |
By JP Rohde From: salt lake city, utah Sep 25, 2010
| super fun climb. fairly run out for big cottonwood standards. bring a second rope to rap down... |
By Jaren From: NC Nov 4, 2011
| My memory is a bit shakey of the day but back in 1997 I got off route moving a bit left of the line. Ended up putting in two nuts that were more phychological than anything and the end result was a 70ft whipper that broke my ankle. Not a fun hike down. Its a bit run out so make sure you know where the route goes. |
By Stan Pitcher From: SLC, UT Mar 12, 2012 rating: 5.8+
| Did a hold break off at the first bolt? Seemed very awkward/hard for 5.8 but maybe its cause I haven't climbed forever? You can get a good .75 camalot (and 1 too) below it which I'd recommend! Also all the bolts/hangers on this are old - if you find a newer painted hanger you've wandered onto Glenlivet. |
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