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Skylore Engine 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
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Page Views: 2,558
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 15, 2010

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Skylore Engine approximately follows the red-dashe...

Description 

Originally a two-pitch 5.12d ("Superstition"), this line was recently straightened with the addition of a few bolts, resulting in an epic line that climbs to the rim of the Cirque in one mega-pitch.

Begin as for Superstition, with boulder moves up a shallow, featured corner. At the 2nd bolt, move right, passing an impressive protruding block. Make a rising traverse along big flat edges to reach the high sloping ledge and a no-hands stance.

Sequential liebacking above the ledge leads to a roof-lip traverse, then more edges, eventually gaining the obvious pancake flake. Lieback up the flake to a pumpy rest. A big move above the flake leads to another rest and an all-out huck to a good jug. Shake again below the redpoint crux, a big reach to enter the black headwall. Easier moves snake up to the anchor.

1 60m rope will get you down.

This is currently the easiest free route to the top of the wall.

Location 

Around the center of the Cirque, beginning as for Superstition, at an obvious, 1-foot-deep left-facing dihedral with jagged edges and slopers. There is another left-facing dihedral ~50' left of this one. This route climbs up to an obvious, 10'-high, multi-hued pancake flake ~70 feet up the wall.

Protection 

~16 or so bolts to 2 BA. Bring some longer draws/slings to mitigate rope drag on this wandering line. Stick clip the high first bolt.


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By Joseph DeGaetano
From: Fayetteville, WV
Apr 28, 2011

This route had fixed draws all the way to the anchors as of 4/26/2011. Such a good route.
By ----
Sep 26, 2011
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

This route features 3-4 big dynos. The final dyno is a bit height dependent, but still goes if you're about 5'7" or taller. Beautiful rock, crazy moves, and 30 meters of climbing make this one of the best 5.13- pitches in the gorge. Here is a video of a really lanky guy climbing skylore
By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Nov 16, 2013

No fixed draws anymore, at least not on the entire route. This thing would be a good candidate for permas; I may look into that.