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Morning Glory Spire
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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Steinfell Club, 1960's
Page Views: 9,447
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 6, 2004
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Climber topping out on MGS near dusk.


On the NW side, just left of the bolted line that comes off the ledge is this relatively easy ascent path to the top. It follows a crack/flake system whick ends at a difficult to attain (and protect) ledge move. Move right on the ledge and face climb to get to the leftward traversing overhead crack that becomes another flake/crack system. After a while exit this crack and finish on the highly features face with sparse but adequate protection.


A standard rack will be sufficient with an emphasis on the small gear. Runners are also handy.

Photos of Skyline Slideshow Add Photo
Climber on Skyline, Photo taken from the summit of Batwings, on Elephant Rock.
Climber on Skyline, Photo taken from the summit of...
the route, from the belay landing
the route, from the belay landing
Climber high on skyline face.
Climber high on skyline face.
Dan sets off on to the beautiful, featured upper face of a fantastic climb
Dan sets off on to the beautiful, featured upper f...
Sky Line route, generally follows the crack, then left for maybe the last 40'
Sky Line route, generally follows the crack, then ...
Jake on Skyline
Jake on Skyline
Nearing the chains on "Skyline"
Nearing the chains on "Skyline"
Comments on Skyline Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 13, 2013
By vincent pierce
Jul 26, 2004

One of the great climbs at the city! You may have to wait in line for this one but it's worth it. View from the top is as spectacular as the climb. The bottom half is killer and the runout upper half is easy but so much fun.

By John J. Glime
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 19, 2005

Wow! Be sure to climb this route, it is excellent.

By Nathan Fisher
Sep 5, 2005

Not nearly as runout as I remembered it. Bring small cams for the upper face and you can sew it up. A great lead for a 5.8-5.9 leader.

By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
May 29, 2007

I didn't think the upper face was sparsely protected at all. There are numerous places to put nuts between patina plates, very similar to Red Rocks.

By Amy Denicke
From: Aspen, CO
Jun 25, 2007

This was my first trad lead and even though I had to downclimb to lengthen the sling at the crux undercling, it was such a fabulous climb. Highly recommended!!!

By Fat Paul
From: Central, NJ
Jun 12, 2009

Had to bail from route just above crux in hail storm on 6/5. Use a long sling to extend your bail anchor to avoid crack from eating your rope.

By Bad Sock Puppet
Jul 19, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Best 5.8 in the City!

By Mattym
Aug 23, 2009

Classic line! One 60m rope will just reach when rapping from the top anchors.

By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 27, 2010

the "crux" traverse really is not that bad. Can easily put in two good pieces along the way with good hands and adequate feet. Such a cool climb and yes a 60 meter (contrary to the guidebook) will get you down.

By Riley Rollins
Oct 5, 2011

A fun route with a great view at the summit...but 4 stars? I thought the best part of the route was the "crux" traverse, and the rest just so-so. I would give batwings 4 stars over this line. Just my opinion.

By Chrisleath
From: Boone, NC
Apr 16, 2012

this is a must do. Keep climbing all the way to the top for the anchors. Great juggs for the final push. "Hero holds"

By wasatch-mtn-man
Jun 15, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Never feels insecure. Traverse gets your attention with only adequate feet but the undercling is solid and takes gear well. Protected upper face with several horizontal C4's but really is easy climbing once you leave the crack. Bucket land from there all the way to the top with an amazing top-out and view. Sweet climb.

From: Alpine, Utah
Nov 23, 2012

You can downclimb Morning Glory Spire on the south side - probaly 5.5/6 - should you ever find yourself on top without a rope.

By K Baumgartner
Jun 27, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Undercling move was underwhelming. Extend your runners to reduce drag. 70m gets you down to the ledge where Fall Line commences.

By Daniel Nelson
Oct 29, 2013

Fantastic Route mostly because of view from top/location. A 70m rope is enough to comfortably rap on. Intimidating Undercling start probably 5.8, but well protected with small gear prior to committing fully. The vast majority of this route is cruiser 5.6/7. Must do!

By Matthew Abbott
Nov 12, 2013

I was unaware that the route broke right at the bulge to follow the left trending under cling and instead I climbed straight up the bulge with micro gear through the seam. It was certainly harder than 5.8, but does anybody know what it goes at?

Great climb!

By grk10vq
Nov 13, 2013