A classic and easy route. The ledge at the top of the first pitch is big, but will have beginners clinging to the rock .The first few moves of the 2nd pitch are very exposed.
There is a lot of loose rock on the 3rd pitch, be careful not to dislodge rocks because there will be people below you.
Climb the chimney and cracks to the left of the ledge for 50ft. At the ledge traverse north to a left facing corner. Climb the corner and face to rings, pitons, or a gear anchor on a large ledge. Watch for hollow flakes on this pitch.
Step out from the ledge to the large chimney. Be sure to protect your seconds during the first few moves, a fall will swing them into the wall. Continue up the crack and chimney to the right. Climb until you reach a large sloping ledge with a tree. Belay from tree and gear.
Continue up the chimney. It eventually breaks down into a rock covered slope. Belay from tree and roots. The 2nd and 3rd pitches can be strung together.
At the far southeast end of Seneca rocks. Go up the east face trail for maybe 100 ft then follow the rock. Pull a few easy 5th class moves (less than 10 ft) to reach a large ledge with trees.
Some fixed gear, you might be able to get something in aound three inches, buta rack of nuts and a hex or two would be adequate
|By George Bell|
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 8, 2007
Seems to me it is under the area "South End". Climbs are normally arranged alphabetically, which is why it comes after "Ecstacy". Or do I misunderstand the problem?
|By Pete Hickman|
From: Tacoma, WA
Jun 27, 2008
Be very careful at the top because there are a lot of big loose rocks and this route has many popular routes right below it. Try to stay to the right as you top out to avoid killing anyone below.
|By Mike Royer|
From: Portland, OR
Sep 29, 2010
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III VD 3a
The climb can be done in 2 pitches if you establish a way to communicate with your belayer. If it's not crowded, it's a quick and easy way up to Broadway.
|By Andy Weinmann|
From: Alexandria, VA
Oct 24, 2013
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III VD 3a
The climb actually starts on the SE Corner but does traverse over onto the South End. To find the start, take the SE Corner Trail (first left off the road past the culvert) up the hill (pass the South End turn early on) and follow it around to the left. As you near the rock face the trail switches-back right and goes up and around back left up some new steps. Follow the trail towards the wall and start near the dead tree (that will likely fall soon). Most parties boulder up to the large Skyline start ledge above and the actual start of climbing on the far left end of the ledge.
Alternatively, where the aforementioned path switches-back right, continue straight towards the wall (passing the trail restoration sign on your right) and start climbing directly below the large Skyline start ledge.