|(9) Long Lane
To start up the featureless slab, use shallow jams and layback until you can reach bigger holds and clip the first bolt. Cruise through a few moves on big holds and horizontals, until you have to make a delicate sidestep, and finally pull off a tiny but positive feature to get up into the dihedral. A final precarious move places you at the anchors. There isn't much of a stance here...
Head up into the dark alley above the monobridge. This route is the last route on the right before you reach the corner containing Long Dihedral.
5 bolts + 2-bolt anchor
|By Nate Ball|
From: Taipei, TW
May 15, 2012
I was originally told this was a 5.9. After climbing it, I thought solid 5.10. The new book says .11a. It's somewhere in the ballpark of those three numbers.