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 ADVANCED
(3) Long Lane
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Dream of White Dragons T 
Cross T 
Dragonfly T 
Dragonslayer T 
Fear Only Fear Itself S 
Fireman's Ladder T 
Golden Gate Roof S 
Golden Gate Slab S 
Guava Banana T 
Heping S 
Inconceivable S 
Long Lane Dihedral T 
Plausible S 
Pocket Dihedral T 
Pocket Overhang S 
Rated G S 
Reach for the Sky S 
Renai S 
Rhino Dihedral S 
Sky Ladder S 
Skyhook S 
Upon A Painted Ocean T 
Virtues On A Street Sign S 
Xinyi S 
Zhongxiao S 

Skyhook 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 124
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Mar 5, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: route topo

Description 

To start up the featureless slab, use shallow jams and layback until you can reach bigger holds and clip the first bolt. Cruise through a few moves on big holds and horizontals, until you have to make a delicate sidestep, and finally pull off a tiny but positive feature to get up into the dihedral. A final precarious move places you at the anchors. There isn't much of a stance here...

Location 

Head up into the dark alley above the monobridge. This route is the last route on the right before you reach the corner containing Long Dihedral.

Protection 

Bolts (2005)
One Ti bolt in anchor (2014)


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Paul gearing it up
Paul gearing it up

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By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Taipei, TW
May 15, 2012

I was originally told this was a 5.9. After climbing it, I thought solid 5.10. The new book says .11a. It's somewhere in the ballpark of those three numbers.