Type: Trad, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: Uwe Schneider and Chris Stevens - 4/29/1991
Page Views: 2,469 total · 13/month
Shared By: Brian Post on Sep 25, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Variation to pitch 1 of Science Friction Wall and alternate to pitch 1 of The Last Unicorn. Start at two bolt anchor between the two routes mentioned and up steep wall past two bolts.

Up and trend right to join The Last Unicorn, you'll finish up steep headwall with bolts then heading right into an overlap, anchor is two bolts (can backup with gear) top of pitch 2 of Last Unicorn.

I've never gone this way, but up and left to join Science Friction Wall.

Location Suggest change

Route starts right of Wonder Wall tree ledge at two bolt anchor. Take South Buttress trail to bottom area of Inferno Wall, up 4th class ledge/gully to Wonder Wall tree ledge, across this, down short chimney, and easy 5th class to anchor. The best guide to Whitehorse is the "Whitehorse Ledge Rock Climbing Super-Topo" by S. Peter Lewis, see tmcbooks.com.

Rappel back to anchor area and reverse approach.

Protection Suggest change

Bolts (some older) and standard rack, a little runout in spots.

Photos

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