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Sky Pilot 

YDS: 5.13c/d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 31 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13c/d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 31 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Matt Wendling
Page Views: 4,753
Submitted By: Jonathan Siegrist on Apr 5, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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The big cross on Sky Pilot.

Description 

This is a brilliant climb. Incredible, streaked stone, difficult and enjoyable movement, plus it's 100% natural. The crux lies right off the ground- undercling to mono and snatch a crimp, then a moderate rest is followed by a full on rose move to two finger pocket, unwind.. awesome. Continue without rest into pumpy 13- climbing to the chains.

Location 

THE LINE. Right up the gut of perhaps the most beautiful wall at Tensleep. A *hard* blank project to its left.

Protection 

8 QD's, stick-clip is nice.


Photos of Sky Pilot Slideshow Add Photo
Gunning for a big pocket above the opening mono boulder problem.
Gunning for a big pocket above the opening mono bo...
SKY PILOT 5.13
SKY PILOT 5.13
Climber on Sky Pilot.
Climber on Sky Pilot.

Comments on Sky Pilot Add Comment
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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Oct 4, 2012

I can't think of a better word than "brilliant" to describe this line. On par with any of the best hard sport routes in America.

Since I'm bored at work, one small nitpick for the sake of preserving history: Although I'm sure there is no official definition, I don't think the cross move qualifies as a 'full on rose move'. "Rose Move" comes from the classic Buoux route "La Rose et Le Vampire". Here is what a Rose Move looks like:

THE original "Rose Move"
THE original "Rose Move"


I suppose its possible that a really short person may need to do an honest-to-god Rose Move (or a regular-sized person could contrive one), but I think most people will just do a big cross as in the pic I posted. Whatever, its a rad move either way!

(I feel dirty whining about this)
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Oct 8, 2012

As you should, starting to sound like Logan?