Sky Pilot 5.13c/d
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The big cross on Sky Pilot.
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Description This is a brilliant climb. Incredible, streaked stone, difficult and enjoyable movement, plus it's 100% natural. The crux lies right off the ground- undercling to mono and snatch a crimp, then a moderate rest is followed by a full on rose move to two finger pocket, unwind.. awesome. Continue without rest into pumpy 13- climbing to the chains.
Location THE LINE. Right up the gut of perhaps the most beautiful wall at Tensleep. A *hard* blank project to its left.
Protection 8 QD's, stick-clip is nice.
SKY PILOT 5.13
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Gunning for a big pocket above the opening mono bo...
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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Oct 4, 2012
| I can't think of a better word than "brilliant" to describe this line. On par with any of the best hard sport routes in America.
Since I'm bored at work, one small nitpick for the sake of preserving history: Although I'm sure there is no official definition, I don't think the cross move qualifies as a 'full on rose move'. "Rose Move" comes from the classic Buoux route "La Rose et Le Vampire". Here is what a Rose Move looks like:
| THE original "Rose Move"
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Oct 4, 2012
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I suppose its possible that a really short person may need to do an honest-to-god Rose Move (or a regular-sized person could contrive one), but I think most people will just do a big cross as in the pic I posted. Whatever, its a rad move either way!
(I feel dirty whining about this) |
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Oct 8, 2012
| As you should, starting to sound like Logan? |
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