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Start up small sidepulls and pockets, making sure to clip the glue-in bolts (w/o hangers). When you reach your first slight overhang, trend left until you can reach the underclings beneath the bulge, and step back to the right. Follow small holds and tricky feet up to the first roof. There are jugs up just above your head, but the angle makes for a strenuous pull. A good right-foot heel hook can make things easier. Getting pumped yet? The angle remains vertical as you approach your second, more intimidating roof. Using big underclings, get your face right up under the roof, and lean back to spot your thank-you-god jugs. Clench, swing a leg up, mantel, and you're done. Cruise the last 10 feet to the anchors.
Approach for Long Lane. Across the monobridge, the face directly in front of you contains many sport routes. Sky Ladder is the furthest to the left (I think).
10 bolts. Bring some longer ones or slings. 2 bolt anchor.
Nov 1, 2013
My first route, and one of first leads, ever at LD or elsewhere. Very casual in spite of the steepness and roof.