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The Balcony
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Alchemy S 
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Sky Hook 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
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Page Views: 959
Submitted By: Chuck Parks on Jun 9, 2008

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Description 

Jam, stem and grope your way up the fat crack/corner toward the precarious-looking diving-board chockstone up high. Claw your way on top of the chocktsone (don't worry, it's solid), then up the crack a bit more before venturing out left on the left face toward anchors below the roof.

Location 

Look for a right-facing corner with an offwidth crack leading to a large roof up high. Just left of the popular sport climb Double Feature.

Protection 

You can get away with just a standard rack, but bringing a couple of big pieces (#4 & #5 Camalot C4) might make you feel a whole lot better. Cold shut anchors on the left face below the roof.


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