Sky Hook 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Jim Downs, Lynn Miobas, 1970 |
| Submitted By: | Perin Blanchard on Apr 24, 2008 |
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BETA PHOTO: Bolt Slab, West Face
5 Sky Hook 5.8
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Description A fun climb up the left side of the Bolt Slab.
Scramble up some blocky, lower-angled rock to the base of the slab proper (you can belay either from here or from lower down, below the blocky stuff).
Climb a pedestal on the left and start upwards, eventually reaching the left arete and easier climbing to chain anchors.
Head towards the left edge of the slab via a left-angling, broken crack that peters out at the arete leaving you with limited protection options for a while. Fortunately, however, there is a fixed pin around the arete that can be clipped with a double-length runner.
The thin (approximately ¼") crack about ten feet from the left edge is Two-Nut Muffin that offers protection but harder climbing, and keeps you away from the left edge longer than Sky Hook
Once reaching the left edge the climbing is easier and continues on mostly large holds while following a broken crack system to the bolted anchor.
Location The left side of the west-facing slab. Climb a pedestal at the base of the slab on the left, and then head up.
Protection A set of nuts (with an emphasis on small nuts), and small to medium cams. Runners, including a double-length runner for a fixed pin around the edge if you go that way. Bolted anchor.
By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Apr 24, 2008
| After looking at the Ruckman guide at home after climbing this route, it seems the first option in my description above is what the guidebook describes. I went the second way described and it didn't seem to be quite as hard as 5.10a anywhere, instead maybe 5.8. (The thin crack looks like fun and I think I'll go back and try it another time).
I used several small nuts from a #4 up to a #7 BD, and a #3 BD micronut. I also used a #2 tricam, #.4 C4, a #.75 C4, and #1.75 DMM. There are a couple of places that would take larger cams (probably a #3 C4) but I didn't carry anything larger than a #2.5 DMM. |
By Tristan Higbee
From: Mexico
Apr 24, 2008
| A really good climb. I've done it via the thin crack, and I remember thinking that it definitely seemed like 5.10a. The protection is small but there. My buddy fell after getting a piece or two in and nearly decked--the tiny gray Metolius TCU saved him (though it was severely bent from then on...). The climb definitely eases up after the first part. |
By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Apr 24, 2008
| Rock Canyon Loremaster Darren Knezek has consulted the ancient texts and declared that this climb is Sky Hook and predates Two-Nut Muffin by a decade or so. I have altered the name and description accordingly. |
By Darren Knezek
Apr 25, 2008
| Perin, I looked at my "guidebook in work" description and the FA was Jim Downs and Lynn Miobas in 1970!!!
This ascent predates every route on Bolt Slab, making it the first route on Bolt Slab that was led from the bottom to the top. |
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