Type: Trad, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: Mack Johnson, 1987
Page Views: 878 total · 7/month
Shared By: Christopher Gagne on Jul 24, 2013 · Updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

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Description Suggest change

Climb the left side of the pinnacle to a slanting feature, then make hard moves right to a good flake crack. Finish up horizontals above the top of the pillar.

You can finish on either Squeeze Box or 5th of November

"This line has scruffy trad trickery. It was cleaned on rappel but not toproped. I shinnied up the tree and left gully and girth-hitched a sling above where it touches the rock (tree was smaller 30+ years ago duh). The left rope protected the crux past the slanting feature to the bottomless crack, then a couple of cams pro-ed that to the top of the block. It needs another scrub & dig, as do many routes at minor crags.

It climbs like some British gritstone weirdness. You could rate it E3 5c----figure that one out! " Mack Johnson

Location Suggest change

Left side of the pillar on the main cliff, right of a tree.

Protection Suggest change

Double ropes, long sling for tree, set of cams to 3-1/2"

Photos

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