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Beacon Rock
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Sky Fishermen (free variation of Grunge Book) 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: FFA Matt Spohn August 25, 2013 (FA Grunge Book Waynne Haack and Steve Strauch)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 325
Submitted By: peachy spohn on Aug 25, 2013

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Description 

Sky Fishermen is one if the best, most aesthetic lines in the Portland area. It has some of everything: dihedral, arÍte, face, and crack. The position, above Beacon Towers, is amazing! Begin up an open dihedral to get to the first bolt. A technical series of left hand underlings and hip scums takes you to better holds and the second bolt (place #4 stoppers between). Then the crux, a desperate foot match and traverse to the arÍte out left. Keep it together through some wild slaps and a crazy cross to a good left hand edge. Then work back left via face moves and up through a little roof. Finally, commence up the most spectacular dihedral Oregon or Washington has to offer!

Location 

Just left of Borderline.

Protection 

4 Bolts. 5 stoppers (#4 - 6). Two metolius #2s.


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By peachy spohn
Sep 11, 2013

I freed Sky Fisherman again yesterday and I just want to say again that it is a great route! The best of the grade in PDX! One reason for climbing it so soon after my ascent, besides the fun, was that I know a few aid groups have gone up it the past couple weeks. I understand that Beacon is an aid climbing haven, but I would like to give my input -(which is probably being overly cautious as I know many of the aid climbers in the area and their ability to properly place and hammer)- and nudge as nicely as I can for aiders to use caution when pounding, as it can permanently alter a beautiful line. I am proud to say that Sky Fisherman is in tip-top shape! Clean aid is always best, but I know not always the only option. I would hate to see holds broken or altered...all this is simply coming from a free climbers worried mind. I don't mean to cause riffs or arguments, but I am simply pleading to use caution as both Sky Fisherman and Wild Turkeys are great free climbing additions to Beacon that would be a true loss if they were destroyed.

Thanks-