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> Ronin's Corner
Sky Dancing
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 2.6 from 9
votes
Routes in Ronin's Corner
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Astral Travels T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Daydream Believer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Desperado T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dreams of Passion S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Free Spirit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gravestone S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Magical Child T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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MCM T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Ridge Runner T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sammy's Frog S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sky Dancing S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Tilting Gravestone S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Weeniedancing T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Wobbler T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 75 ft (23 m) |
| FA: | D. Jones, T. Ryan, C. Ryan, 1992 |
| Page Views: | 1,027 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Spindloe on Jan 20, 2007 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
The arete just right of Dreams of Passion. This isn't as hard as Dreams, but still requires tough friction moves between bolts spaced enough to keep it exciting.
Protection
The first bolt is pretty high. It used to be possible to pre-clip it by standing on a stump, but the stump is now gone. The first moves, especially if you take the slab on the left, could well be the crux, and the base drops off right below the bolt so you risk a fifteen foot fall after only climbing ten feet. All this suggests that stick-clipping is a very good idea, but you may be able to climb MCM to the height of the bolt and traverse over to it.
Take a few nuts or small cams for the crack between the two slab sections. There's a two-bolt anchor at the top of Dreams of Passion that works for this climb.
Take a few nuts or small cams for the crack between the two slab sections. There's a two-bolt anchor at the top of Dreams of Passion that works for this climb.
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