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Sky Chimney 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 1,698
Submitted By: JohnK on Jun 28, 2008

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Matt Johnson on "Sky Chimney" at Smith Rock, OR.
P...

Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Get high above the Crooked River with this fun three pitch route. The original first pitch (5.6) is a low quality grunt but pitch two (5.7) to the small belay cove and the last pitch (5.7) make this climb worth doing.

Location 

The start is at the base of the heart shaped rock that sits to the left of Asterisk Pass. Either rap off the west side on hard to find rap anchors or 'walk' off by scrambling down a west side gully.

Protection 

Gear to 3 inches. Be sure to know how to build anchors as the belay cove requires some skill to create a safe anchor.


Photos of Sky Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
View from the top of "Sky Chimney" at Smith Rock, OR. <br />Photo by: Matt Johnson
View from the top of "Sky Chimney" at Smith Rock, ...
Stuart Meints on "Sky Chimney" at Smith Rock, OR. <br />Photo by: Matt Johnson
Stuart Meints on "Sky Chimney" at Smith Rock, OR.
...
Belaying in the little cave can be lame because the ground is dirty and sloping downwards so much. If you trust your anchor in there its probably more fun to go with a hybrid hanging/standing belay like this dude.
Belaying in the little cave can be lame because th...

Comments on Sky Chimney Add Comment
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By Naz
From: Herndon, Virginia
May 28, 2012

p1 has bolts, if you stay on the ramp atop of the large flake; otherwise chimney is a 25' awkward unprotectable grunt.

Pay heed to warning about the belay stance atop pitch 2, there was some tat when we did it, best to probably build anchor at the crack on the left of the belay. Lots of birds nest along this route.

Pitch 3 goes to a scary crumbly ledge, then it's a scramble to the top. This is adventure climbing, with great exposure. Two 70m ropes tied together will get you to the ground off the shuts of Sky Ridge.
By K Baumgartner
Aug 4, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Concur that chimney is awkward and unprotectable.

Brought two up to the P2 belay "ledge", which was a bit awkward, but manageable.

Watch out for serious rock fall potential at the top of P3 at the bomber legs.

Two 70m ropes got us to the bottom. Two clueless climbers told us we could rap with one 60m--what were they thinking.
By Steve Wolford
Oct 20, 2012

To get off Sky Chimney or Ridge with one 60m, uphill from the top of Sky Ridge is a rappel station off the backside. 3 raps get you down.
By Alex Mitchell
From: Cincinnati, OH
May 27, 2013

Would be such a great climb if it wasn't covered in smelly nasty bird crap.
By Russell Fogle
From: Boise, ID
Oct 21, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The belay from the top of P3 is a gravel field, make sure that your follower has a helmet and glasses! We got buzzed with some large rocks from a party rapping a route above and to the right of us, be careful and stand close to the wall.
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Oct 25, 2013

To avoid bombing your partner and others with gravel atop P3, (the last real pitch) clip the bolt high on the right side of the ledge (keeps your rope off the gravel and acts as a directional) and carefully walk the edge of the ledge to the left. Most, if not all, of the gravel is uphill of the edge and is frightening. Staying low will keep you on solid rock all the way to cracks (small to medium gear) on the left.
By Ashort
Apr 3, 2014

There is a large detached block in the belay hole, the whole thing moves when touching it. The anchor set up in the hole is not simple, not good for beginners. Probably best to just skip the belay hole and combine pitches 2 and 3 if you have enough gear.

On pitch 1 the 5.7 face is a nice alternative to the chimney.