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Sky Chi 
Uplift Mofo Party Plan 

Sky Chi 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dave Turner, Danny Kalb, & CSU crew
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 778
Submitted By: David A. Turner on Oct 25, 2010
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Description 

This is like Tai Chi, but practiced where rock and sky meet. I always find climbing at Dude's energizing, particularly on a sunny, crisp fall day. It has a lot of variety in 75 feet. We climbed this after the new guidebook was published.


Location 

This is two routes right of Dude's Jam Crack. Start in a left-facing corner/ramp, that has a short roof at the bottom. A mixture of gear and bolts gets you up to and over a strenuous, bucktoothed overhang, a technical overlap, and the headwall above.


Protection 

6 protection bolts; Single cams from 1/2" to #2 Camalot, a couple of medium/large stoppers. Extra 1" cam might be helpful. Bolt anchor.



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By Todd Ritter
From: Lafayette
Aug 8, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

Excellent route and well bolted. The trad gear supplements the bolts; all crux moves are bolt protected. One each #0.4-1 C4 along with a few small/med. stoppers is plenty. Two distinct cruxes (blend into one if you miss the rest!) with an "it isn't over yet" finish. Varied climbing throughout.

By Pinklebear
Jul 21, 2012

Great route, very pumpy and challenging and enjoyable. You must arrive to the headwall roof with a strong preparation for crimping.

If you don't want to lug the whole rack, I placed Metolius orange, then a No 2. Camalot, then Metolius black below the first bolt, then Metolious green (#1 Camalot) between a couple bolts up on the headwall. But that's just what I placed. There are other options, brau.