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> Bughouse Heights
Skullduggery
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.7 from 23
votes
Routes in Bughouse Heights
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Fata Morgana T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Jade T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Pussy's Galore S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Salamander T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Skullduggery T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Squamish Lumberjack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sting in the Tail T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tail Wind T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Too Blue to Screw T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Too Pink to Think T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 98 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Simon Tooley, J. Beekman |
| Page Views: | 1,732 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Deanna Puttonen on Aug 25, 2014 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
The gaping crack. The crux is first getting into the crack - a bolt protects here. The unmistakable gaping wide crack at Bughouse Heights. A low-angle, shallow crack with marginal protection grants access to a comfortable ledge below the offwidth. Yes, it really goes at 5.10-.
Location
It is pretty hard to miss the large off-width crack at Bughouse Heights. It's the humongous crack on the trail up to pixie corner.
Protection
Contrary to the guidebook description, this route is x-rated without at least one #6 and one #5 cam. The initial crack will take a 1" piece and something small (#2 c3). A bolt protects the first move into the squeeze. From here the crack runs from tipped-out #6 to #4. It is possible to place a #.75 to protect the final moves. Bolts with rap rings at the top
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