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Poland Hill
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Skull 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Steve Matous, 1974
Page Views: 2,467
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Sep 18, 2001
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Looking up at the crux

Description 

This classic line lies in the center of the SE side of Poland Hill. Scramble up to the low angle hand crack in a right-facing dihedral, then climb with determination and haste the overhanging hand crack that continues above (crux). Belay just below the wide crack. With good protection surmount the interesting slot (5.9ish) and belay atop. Walk off the back of the formation.


Protection 

Standard Vedauwoo rack up to four inches, emphasizing the hand sizes. There are no anchors or bolts on this route.



Photos of Skull Slideshow Add Photo
Working the P1 crux.
Working the P1 crux.
Jason leading skull
Jason leading skull
Mitch "the muscle" Musci trying to make the slot bigger
Mitch "the muscle" Musci trying to make the slot b...
Comments on Skull Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 9, 2010
By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
May 30, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

"Interesting" is right. Watched my part do a knee bar with one leg and kicked his other leg above is head to pressure off another feature. If you're doing it right, the first part is not at all strenuous. Remember to hang from the jams and don't over do it while jamming.

By pete cogan
Aug 21, 2004

This route can easily be done in one pitch. The only reason to set a belay is if you want to clip into bird-crap coated slings in a reeking, festering spot. Not a good enough reason.

By nolteboy
Apr 18, 2005

Don't be intimidated by the steep crux on p.1 - the jams are bomber. This climb is best done in one pitch.

By Stephen Marsh
From: Thornton, CO
Sep 25, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

I really enjoy this climb - except for getting around the bird crap in the middle. Have done it twice so far, always in one pitch. The second time I had no one able to second it, so I set a belay at the top, and was able to clean all my gear easily on rappel. Just had to go around back and scramble up to get my anchor pieces. The second half looks alot harder than 10a from the ground but the hidden ledges help alot. Some #1 and .75 camalots are all you need for a quick anchor setup.

By Steve Matous
May 26, 2006

FA Steve Matous 1974, named after a skull that was found in the crack by an old raptor nest

By Brian Story
Nov 14, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

The steep hands section is classic and not to be missed. I too had trouble puzzling my way into the upper OW/chimney. Bring at least one #4 camalot size piece for the upper section. This climb should be done as one pitch.

By Luke Clarke
From: Golden
Sep 7, 2007

What sort of skull?

By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Sep 23, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Now features a pair of bolts on top. A new style #5 Camalot fits great in the top section (better and higher than an old #4 Camalot, which fits right above an awesome #3 Camalot placement), but you can also score a good looking #1 Camalot in one of the small cracks in the same area.

By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Nov 9, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

I removed that on the 30th. The process bent both axles though, so if it's yours, sorry.