Skull 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Steve Matous, 1974 |
| Submitted By: | Jesse Ryan on Sep 18, 2001 |
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Working the P1 crux.
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Description This classic line lies in the center of the SE side of Poland Hill. Scramble up to the low angle hand crack in a right-facing dihedral, then climb with determination and haste the overhanging hand crack that continues above (crux). Belay just below the wide crack. With good protection surmount the interesting slot (5.9ish) and belay atop. Walk off the back of the formation.
Protection Standard Vedauwoo rack up to four inches, emphasizing the hand sizes. There are no anchors or bolts on this route.
Jason leading skull
| Looking up at the crux
| Mitch "the muscle" Musci trying to make the slot b...
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By Brian Scoggins From: Eugene, OR May 30, 2003 rating: 5.10a
| "Interesting" is right. Watched my part do a knee bar with one leg and kicked his other leg above is head to pressure off another feature. If you're doing it right, the first part is not at all strenuous. Remember to hang from the jams and don't over do it while jamming. |
By pete cogan Aug 21, 2004
| This route can easily be done in one pitch. The only reason to set a belay is if you want to clip into bird-crap coated slings in a reeking, festering spot. Not a good enough reason. |
By nolteboy Apr 18, 2005
| Don't be intimidated by the steep crux on p.1 - the jams are bomber. This climb is best done in one pitch. |
By Stephen Marsh From: Thornton, CO Sep 25, 2005 rating: 5.10a
| I really enjoy this climb - except for getting around the bird crap in the middle. Have done it twice so far, always in one pitch. The second time I had no one able to second it, so I set a belay at the top, and was able to clean all my gear easily on rappel. Just had to go around back and scramble up to get my anchor pieces. The second half looks alot harder than 10a from the ground but the hidden ledges help alot. Some #1 and .75 camalots are all you need for a quick anchor setup. |
By Steve Matous May 26, 2006
| FA Steve Matous 1974, named after a skull that was found in the crack by an old raptor nest |
By Brian Story Nov 14, 2006 rating: 5.10a
| The steep hands section is classic and not to be missed. I too had trouble puzzling my way into the upper OW/chimney. Bring at least one #4 camalot size piece for the upper section. This climb should be done as one pitch. |
By Luke Clarke From: Golden Sep 7, 2007
| What sort of skull? |
By Brian Scoggins From: Eugene, OR Sep 23, 2008 rating: 5.10a
| Now features a pair of bolts on top. A new style #5 Camalot fits great in the top section (better and higher than an old #4 Camalot, which fits right above an awesome #3 Camalot placement), but you can also score a good looking #1 Camalot in one of the small cracks in the same area. |
By Paul Carlson From: laramie, wyoming Nov 8, 2010 rating: 5.10a
| Now features a #4 Dragon cam conveniently and irretrievably placed at the upper crux. A permanent piece for the ages. |
By Brian Scoggins From: Eugene, OR Nov 9, 2010 rating: 5.10a
| I removed that on the 30th. The process bent both axles though, so if it's yours, sorry. |
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