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Unsorted Routes:

Skraps 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Chris Kalous, Rebecca Rusch
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,595
Submitted By: chris Kalous on Dec 4, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Skraps.

Description 

Low angle corner with a bolt. Good, mellow lead.

Location 

A couple minutes past Sparks of the Tempest. Around the corner from a broken down pillar that is guarding a good looking corner/roof crack.

Protection 

Smaller than hands, bigger than tips. Nothing special.


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By slim
Administrator
Oct 20, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

i've done this one a couple times now, and always find that .5 camalot layback to feel uncomfortable for 5.9.
By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Oct 20, 2010

I don't think too many will argue with you on that, especially considering what the other 5.9's in the area feel like.
By Fulford
Mar 26, 2015

Nice little route but not sure why the bolt is there? The only thing I can think of is that the FA-ist started to put the anchor there and then decided to move it higher? You can protect within a few feet below and above the bolt. I'm not a bolt hater but this one is out of character with the route/Creek.
By chris Kalous
Mar 31, 2015

Fulford wrote:
Nice little route but not sure why the bolt is there? The only thing I can think of is that the FA-ist started to put the anchor there and then decided to move it higher? You can protect within a few feet below and above the bolt. I'm not a bolt hater but this one is out of character with the route/Creek.,

There's another couple reasons a first ascensionist might put in what now seems like an unnecessary bolt, including that they just felt like it (although I think that one had to do with passing loose rock that was then cleaned.)

The real question is: did you clip it?
By Roy Suggett
Mar 31, 2015

The last comment was thoughtful and added by someone who most likley has bolted and FAed more than a few lines. Unless you were there on that fateful FA day, then the only meaningful thing one can say is "thank you for the work"
By doligo
Mar 31, 2015

Never climbed this, but from the photo above it looks like the bolt is by the cam-eating roof? It is also always nice and rare to see a 5.13 climber putting up 5.9 routes with consideration for an at-their-limit 5.9 leader going for an onsight. At the rate this place going, I'm all for bolting the entire IHC and GEneric. Just bootied a stuck #3 from one other popular handcrack the other day, yes I had to use water and yes I felt guilty for making the crack just a wee bit wider.
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