|Vestlige Bastion (Western Bastion)
Skjoldet (The Sheild)
|Type: ||Trad, Aid, 20 pitches, 3000', Grade VI|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c A3 [details]|
|FA: ||FA: Gravdahl, Julsrud, Karlsen, Diesen August 1995 FFA: Leo Houlding, Andy Cave 1999 5.12c|
|Page Views: ||156|
|Submitted By: ||Ian Hanson on Apr 15, 2013|
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The first ascent party used 4 days on the wall with 3 bivis.
An impressive line up one of the most exposed walls in Norway. The route is mostly clear of water seepage, and is dry for most of the summer. The route follows a system of dihedrals and cracks that start on the grassy ledges approximately 200 yards up and to the right of Geitaneset. High quality granite starts at about the 6th pitch. The hardest pitches (both free and technical) are well protected in solid rock. The technical crux includes 6m of bathooking. The last two pitches before the edge can be combined.
Pitch by pitch:
1. 45m 5.10c
2. 30m 5.8
3. 45m 5.9
4. 30m scrambling (5.2)
5. 15m scrambling (5.3)
6. 45m 5.10d
7. 10m 5.5
8. 50m 5.8
9. 40m 5.11
10. Traverse left to a good bivi ledge 5.9
11. 40m 5.11
12. 30m 5.11
13. 25m 5.11c
14. 50m climbs free at 5.12a
15. 45m climbs free at 5.12a
16. 15m 5.10b A1
17. 50m 5.10b
18. 40m 5.10b
The last pitches are a grassy scramble up to the top.
Up and to the right of Geitaneset. One of the most obvious lines up Kjerag.
normal free rack, with an emphasis on small/medium gear, aiders, skyhooks, rope protector, portaledge. Water should be hauled up.