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Skip to My Lou 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Karl Rohnke
Page Views: 1,901
Submitted By: Coz Teplitz on Jun 14, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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Description 

Another of the fun East Face routes, this route climbs to the left edge of Lunch Ledge. Although done as a "sport" route, some gear makes this a little more palatable, especially on the second pitch.

A short approach pitch leads up the slab just to the left of the start of Helmet Buttress. This "pitch" is short - all of 30 feet. One can also scramble up just to the right of Jim Dandy.

P1: Climb straight up off of ledge, clipping two bolts, until level with the ledge on P1 of Jim Dandy. Clip a third bolt, then traverse up and right, passing a pin and several more bolts. (A small cam in the traverse can lessen the potential swing for a partner.) As the climbing eases, continue moving up and right to a belay stance in a small alcove with two bolts. (120 ft., 5.6)

P2: Climb up and right past two bolts, then up easier ground toward Lunch Ledge. (80 ft., 5.5)


Location 

This popular route is located between Jim Dandy and Helmet Buttress on the East Face of TR. Just to the right of Jim, locate the big tree ledge 30 feet up. The ledge is easily reached by climbing from either side.


Protection 

Mostly bolts, although some gear can reduce runouts, especially on P2. A light rack is all that is necessary.



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By RadDawg
From: NE, GA
Dec 4, 2010

I know this route has long been rated 5.6, but I thought P1 was no harder than P1 of Jim Dandy. Both are fun.

By Scott O
From: California
Jun 6, 2011

It's definitely harder than Jim Dandy, although not by a huge amount. It's more vertical, and the holds are smaller. Some of them are quite polished, too.

By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Apr 10, 2012

An excellent sibling route to Jim Dandy! Pretty much runs parallel to Jim Dandy just 15 feet bellow. More sustained climbing, less crowded, and overall funtastic "Skip to My Lou" is a great route to do on busy days or once you have finally realized you cannot climb "Jim Dandy" for the 100th time! Can be climbed on only quick draws and is well bolted, but there are plenty of potential pro placements through out each pitch. Makes you ask yourself why it's bolted in the first place?!

  • HIghly Recommended*

By Chris Massey
Oct 22, 2012

Definately like this one better than Jim Dandy. Less crowded too.

By Jonathan Dull
From: NC High County
Dec 2, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Definitely a touch more difficult than Jim Dandy but also a better overall route. Bring a light rack and plenty of extendable draws.