|Skip and Sandy Boulder
One of my personal favorite V3's. This route is compromised of technique and power moves. Sit start using the crack formed by the block, and progress up and left on a variety of holds including crimps, sidepulls, and gastons. The top crimps are hidden in a dark streak on the boulder so look hard. The top out holds are slopey but there are good feet. If you get scared at the top traverse to the right to gigantic holds, this is off the route but being safe is more important.
A piece of beta information is to use a small crimp two feet to the left of the top of the large block you start on, and cross over to the first rail with your right hand this puts you in a better position to continue the route.
With beta this grade makes sense, without beta it feels a lot harder.
On the Skip and Sandy Boulder, the route is on the opposite side as the road.
Pads and a spotter.
Making the crux move.
My right hand is on the crimp you go for in the cr...
|By Christian Prellwitz|
From: Telluride, CO
Jul 30, 2013
rating: V3 6A
I know this is a lot to ask, but it would be great (pretty please!) if people made a habit of not using the higher right hand sidepull of 'The Devastating Reverend Tom' for a foot when climbing this problem. I recognize that it's an easier foot to use than some of the other options, but it is definitely contributing to that hold getting a bit polished. And that problem is hard enough already! 'Skip and Sandy' is still quite reasonable at v3 without that foot.
Just a heads up!