|Wall Street South
This stellar route is 1.5 miles downriver from Long Canyon. It is characterized by a leaf-shaped pod halfway up the route. It starts with some chossy, face climbing with huecos past two good bolts. The splitter starts with some fingerlocks and some stemming that leads to thin hands. Some face holds on the left of the crack make this section not so desparate. The pod offers some chimney rests before you blast out the perfect hands that take you out of the pod and to the anchors.
Double set of cams from #1 to #3. Extra 1.5 and 2 Friend-sized pieces. Two bolts protect the inital chossy face climbing. 70m rope or 2 ropes required.
0.8 past miles marker 4. If you pass mile marker 3 go back about 100 yards or so.
Jul 27, 2006
a 60m rope DOES NOT reach the ground. you will end up with about ten to fifteen feet of sketchy downclimbing.
|By Mark Ferguson|
Oct 16, 2008
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
One of the best cracks in the Moab area.
|By Steven Lucarelli|
From: Moab, UT
Jun 14, 2012
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Correction on the location of this route. It's about .8 past mile marker 4. If you pass mile marker 3 go back about 100 yards or so.
Jun 25, 2012
thanks for the correction, steven. i also think that this route is not as hard as the 11c rating implies. some might think this is only 11a, especially if you're good at #2 friend cracks.
|By Bob Rotert|
Feb 10, 2014
Like most all #2 friend, #1 Camalot size desert cracks. Personal hand size is really going to influence difficulty one direction or another. Just sayin .. Realize, most folks can be awesome at #2 friend size cracks if their hands fit in them. \;o)